3 L7 12S 3 KICKER 1200.1 WHAT KIND OF POEWER IS THAT DO I NEED ANYTHING SPECIAL

 

Unregistered guest
OK I GOT A GRADN MARQUIS 94 LS IM PUTTING 3 12 INCH L7S AND 3 1200.1 FOR ALL OF THEM FOR NOW. MIGHT UPGRADE THE SUBS SOON IF I DONT LIKE THEM CAN ANYBODY TELL ME ABOUT THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR WHAT WILL I NEED TO MAKE THIS WORK DO I NEED ANYTHING SPECIAL ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT IM A NOOB
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 364
Registered: 12-2003
If you mean JBL BP1200.1 amplifiers, and you're using three of them, with a 2 Ohm load on each amp to produce 1200wRMS per sub, that means you're talking 330A of current, max, from the combined amplifiers.
you'll need an alternator capable of producing at least 400A of current to supply all three amplifiers, and the car's own demands beyond that.
Add to that any amps used for components.
you're probably talking at least two 200A alternators, or a 200A and a 270A together.
That will require some custom mounting work.
you'll need 1/0AWG cable for this throughout, split down to 4AWG for each amp at teh amp locations.
if you plan to run the system without the engine on, you'll want to consider battery isolators, and a bank of Optima yellow top RG deep cycle batteries for the task.

I hope you have a lot of money to sink into this.
 

New member
Username: Fillymo

Post Number: 10
Registered: 12-2003
Arent 1200 watt rms too much for a L7 12 .. They only run 750 rms
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 370
Registered: 12-2003
yup I was going to mention that, but didn't bother.
3 JL 500/1 amps, or something in the 700-800 watt range would be more ideal.
 

Unregistered guest
ok i was thingking about gettin the kicker 1200.1 for my woofers.are tehre ways to turn downt he power from the amp so im not giving it 1200 watt rms at 1 ohm or whatever glasswolf do u have any idea on how much this would cost me to do the 3 l7 and the 3 1200.1 i mean the cost fo all the extra parts to make it work also would it be cheaper for me to get 2 13w7s or 12w7s and a 2 jl amps in the long run with all the extra parts and stuff let me know thanks
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 425
Registered: 12-2003
no there isn't any way to turn down the power of the amplifiers without opening them up and physically modifying them.

just get smaller amps.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 34
Registered: 12-2003
You can actually lower the power output of an amplifier by presenting a higher resistance load on the outputs.

Most amplifiers advertise their power based on RMS output at 4ohms even if they exaggerate this number. Lowering the resistance (to maybe 2ohms) will make the amp work harder, produce more heat and power, and draw more power from the electrical system. Raising the resistance (to 8 or even 16 ohms) will ease the strain on the amp, lower the power output substancially, and make the amp draw less power from the charging system.

This is not a scientific fact but you can kinda count on the power output reducing by about 50% when you double the resistance of the speaker load. It's a ballpark anyway..

Still, I agree with glasswolf...if you don't want that much power you shouldn't spend that much $ to get it unless you believe you will want to have that much power on tap later. Save the $ and get better interconnects or use it to put a heavy layer of Dynamat in the car. There are very effective things you can do with a couple hundred bucks saved here and there.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2003
Addendum:
The only rating Kicker provides on that particular amp is the 1-ohm rating. The amp may produce that power no matter what, haven't played with one to find out.

I'd talk to Kicker and find out what happens to the power output of the KX line when you increase the resistance of the speaker load...unless someone in here already knows and will spare you the research.

It's possible with this mono specific amp that variations on the output load won't affect power as the previous post discusses. The above post is true with AB amplifiers but these Class D amps may react differently.

I'm just not sure...
 

Unregistered guest
ok but do u think i would just be better off gettin 2 12w7s and 2 jl amps. would it be a lot cheaper for all the extra stuf. like u said earlier i would have to buy 2 alternatos would i have to upgrade my alternator for the 2 w7s and the 2 amps . thanks everyone looks like i dont know anything about car audio can somebody give me a guesstimate on how much i would have to pay for all the extra stuff to make it work
 

New member
Username: Glasswolf

Post Number: 468
Registered: 12-2003
you can get a single replacement alternator up to about 300A.
that's good for around 2Kwatt of amplifiers total.. maybe a bit more.

that'd replace the stock alternator, so you won't need to mount two alt's.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 36
Registered: 12-2003
Mike, I'm pretty sure your car has a 90amp alternator...maybe 95 (my '96 LS does.) You should be able to run a 600ish watt amp with your stock alternator if this is true. Just keep in mind that if you have your headlights and your heater or air conditioner on, you're going to be in the red zone and you should turn down the radio. Just use your head, if you plan on cranking it up and keeping it cranked when you're not on the highway (when your alternator is producing full power) then you should upgrade your alternator to compensate.

If you want to go all JL and want to stay safe but not upgrade the charging system, you can get away with running a single 500/1 mono amp (stable to 1.5ohms) and a couple of 12W3v2 subs with dual 2-ohm voice coils. With this you'll present the amp with a single 2-ohm load and be right in the sweet spot.

If you want the W7's, you're going to need to use more power. JL recommends at least 500w per speaker on the 12" flavor and your stock charging system would be taxed with the audio alone...not to mention the other electrical needs of the car. You could run a single W7 and the above mentioned amp but I'm pretty sure you'll get more sound out of the two W3v2 subs.

If you want to keep peace of mind, install a real ammeter in your dash. So long as the gauge reads positive, you're safe but when it reads negative you're demanding more current than the alternator can keep up with.
 

Unregistered guest
I just bought 2 Kicker 15" 2 ohm solo barics. Now I', just trying to figure what amps to put to them. I was thinkin about the Audiobahn 1500HCT. Now from reading the reviews, I'm interested in tha Kicker 1200.1. Which would any of you prefer?
 

Eric S.
Unregistered guest
i have 2 12" L7s with a kx 1200.1 amp, plenty of power i think yur wasting yur money buying 3 amps and plus with 3 L7 with 1200 watts going to each you will blow them.
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