Power Acoustik Area 51 Amp / Audiobahn subs

 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
I'm pretty new to car audio and don't know much.
I've been looking at the Power Acoustik Area 51 Amp with 1600w and 820rms. Can anyone tell me how good are they from a scale of 1-10. Also how well would audiobahn subs go well with it. I also have no stinking clue how good or bad audiobahn subs are. So ANY help would be appreciated. Thx.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4262
Registered: Dec-03
scale of 1 to 10
amp: 3
subs: 1
 

fallout
Unregistered guest
Wow. That sucks. What do you recomend?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4275
Registered: Dec-03
depends a lot on your budget for sub(s) and amp.
one good sub will out-perform two crappy ones though, so you don't always need to use two to get a good amount of bass.
keep that in mind.
 

Silver Member
Username: Grmncrsnbr

VA

Post Number: 290
Registered: Jun-04
whats your price range?
Vehicle?
Favorite Music Type?
Prefer Sound Quality or just loud?
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
amp 150-200
sub 200-250
car: 2004 Civic
Music: Rap
Sound quality + Loud
 

Silver Member
Username: Grmncrsnbr

VA

Post Number: 291
Registered: Jun-04
id look into cerwin vega vmaxes
if you got two tens with a 600W amp @ 2 ohms mono amp youd be doin alright. they have a good excursion and from what i understand good SQ also. you can get two on ebay for about 170 and that way you have a little mor for a good amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4279
Registered: Dec-03
I'd consider a single Kicker CompVR 15" sub in a slot vented enclosure. 3cu ft.
use a JBL BP600.1 to drive the sub. get a dual 4 ohm coil version to get a 2 ohm load and 600wRMS to the sub.

that'd be great for rap.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
A pair of 12" Kicker S12L7 2ohm, pair of 15" S12L5 4ohm, or a single Kicker CompVR 15" ? Would it be better with a kicker amp or the JBL BP600.1?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4291
Registered: Dec-03
the kicker amp is better but considerably more expensive.
I dislike Kicker's square subs. they have limited Xmax, and a lot of design issues. They tend to get lead slap problems, surround separation, tinsel lead separation, and coil failure.
poorly made subs.
better sticking with a round sub.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Damn i'm such a newb. Ok i just bought two Kicker CompVR 15" on Ebay for $170. Now what kicker sub will go best with with the subs. Thx for all your help.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 879
Registered: May-04
You mean Kicker amp. What impedance were the subs you got?
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Woops. Yeah i meant amp.
KICKER 15" Comp VR CVR15 CVR154 D4
~ Polymineral cone
~ Santoprene rubber surround
~ Dual 4-ohm voice coils
~ Frequency response 25-500 Hz
~ Power range 100-500 watts RMS (50-250W per coil)
~ Peak power handling 1000 watts
~ Sensitivity 88.5 dB SPL
~ Top-mount depth 7-1/4"
~ Sealed box volume 1.8-5.2 cubic feet
~ Ported box volume 3.0-5.0 cubic feet
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4303
Registered: Dec-03
since you got two dual 4 ohm subs, I'd look at the Kicker KX1200.1 on ebay
it's 1 ohm stable, and puts out plenty of power.
great little amp.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
I was looking at that amp. Little bit pricy though. Anything else a little less?
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
The Kicker KX600.4 is half the price but is it a major difference from the KX1200.1?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4315
Registered: Dec-03
at one ohm the kx1200.1 will give about 700 watts to each sub.
its only $425 new. time to save up.
if you're going to buy large subs like those you need to power them properly if you want them to do anything useful.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4316
Registered: Dec-03
the 600.4 is a 4 channel amp
if its bridged to 2 channels its only 4 ohm stable
won't work for the subs.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Damn $425 is gonna throw me into bankruptcy. I still need to buy an enclosure box. I'm also looking at the JBL GTO1201.1. I know it's not as good, but it seems to have as much power as the kx1200.1. I'm willing to spend about $250 on the amp. Which is the best amp at the $250 price range?
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Also forgot to tell you this. My cousin also gave me 2 XSite1250 12" 800rms DVC subs. I know they're like crap, but with an amp around $250, would it better to leave those two out and use the two kicker only or would it sound better with 4 subs?
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4332
Registered: Dec-03
I don't know any 1 ohm stable amps that deliver 1200 watts for under $250.
time to save up your money.
for $300-350 you could get a JBL bp1200.1
cheapest one I know
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
What about the JL 1000/1? I hear they're better in comparison with the kx1200.1. I've found one for about 300-350.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4346
Registered: Dec-03
only stable to 1.5 ohms
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Ok i'm gonna buy either the kx1200.1 or the JBL bp1200.1. Now can you tell me the best settings for the subs and amp, and i'll ask a friend to help me set it up. Once again, thx for all your help.
 

Silver Member
Username: Iamduff_87

Michigan America!

Post Number: 169
Registered: May-04
should have gotten either only 1 sub or 2 12s. If you cant get the amp why get the subs??? My friend did this then realized to power his subs he needed alot of money for an amp. I told him before hand and he still wasted his money. Now he sold his for about 3/4 what he bought them for brand new. Hope you svae your money or you can re-sell 1 of your 15s.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
aite. Guess like time to start saving for the kx1200.1.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4370
Registered: Dec-03
depends on what you consider a lot of money I guess
I use two twelves and they were $840/pair
the two amps to drive them were $1,250 each
then another one of those amps for the front speakers
$1,200 for the front compnent set
$600 for the head unit
$1,700 for the 1/3rd octave EQ
$370 for the pre-amp
$600 for the alternator, $200 or so for cabling and such, $185 each for 2 gallon buckets of spray in sound damping material, $150 each for deep cycle batteries... etc etc

$425 for a 1200 watt amp for a pair of 15s he got for $170 doesn't seem so bad after that... and I'm sure he'll love the results.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
I just went to Fry's and the guy there recommended 2 1000w Crunch amp, one for each sub, $180 each amp. Any good?
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
K i bought the kx1200.1. Now my card is maxed. I got lucky and found it for $370 brand new. Ok, how do i set the amp?
 

fallout
Unregistered guest
Now time to buy the box. I have a 04 Civic. What kinda box should i get for the kickers. Is there any link to show me how to wire the amp and subs properly? thx
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
I was thinking of getting bandpass box for my 15". Any suggestions or is this a stupid idea? Last thing I need, plz help.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 24
Registered: Jun-04
ive heard the area 51 on four super blue 15s in a truck cab and it did ok but it isnt putting out anywhere near 820 rms trust me. plus the amp is shaped too large and probably gets hot like most pyramid stuff.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 25
Registered: Jun-04
fallout i ran that subwoofer for you it should be best at 5.2 cubic feet sealed internal volume it will be a nice sq/spl box considerably better than the 3.0 cubic ft box.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

fallout
Unregistered guest
Man. I'm confused. GlassWolf recommended a vented enclosure. You said a sealed enclosure. My friend said a bandpass enclosure. My Kickers and amp are just sitting there collecting dust.
Ok Sean, so I should get a 5.2 cu.ft. seal enclosure, but are you sure it'll fit in a Civic?
Thx for ur help.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 30
Registered: Jun-04
fallout if glass reccomends a ported trust him hes got experience over me hes an installer for many years. If you build one as big as im suggesting it will have to be built custom. Either way you really shouldnt just buy any old ported box and hope it works but then again i like to try to get the most i can out of a subwoofer. LOL

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 31
Registered: Jun-04
ps...........whatever you do dont get a prefab bandpass box like q logic they flex and loose air and screws come loose on the plexiglass. So whatever you do if you dont custom build that bandpass box dont do it. Heck im not even sure if that 15 is suited for a bandpass box. Ill leave this one to glass.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Well Glass recomended a vented enclosure for a single 15". But since i got two 15s" i don't know if it make a difference. I'm still waiting for his reponse.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Well Glass recomended a vented enclosure for a single 15". But since i got two 15s" i don't know if it make a difference. I'm still waiting for his reponse.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 32
Registered: Jun-04
since you have two 15's you just double what he told you. In other words if he said 3 cf ported you go 6 cf ported dual 15 box. Idea.....If you dont want to build a box you could buy a two 15 box that has 2.5 cf per chamber and add two layers (two inch each chamber) of fiberglass insulation. That would effectively make the box 3.0 cf per chamber to the woofer.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 33
Registered: Jun-04
ps....If you want help building a box and need specs let me know all I would need is the usable demensions inside your car for where you want to put it.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Well, the enclosure can't be anything bigger than 18x40x18 and specifically, it has to be like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5712810674&ssPageName=ST RK:MEWA:IT
I'm planning to have it built at 5 cu.ft. which is the maximum Kicker specifications recomended. But since ported box are bigger and at 5 cu.ft. I have no idea if it'll be smaller or bigger than 18x40x18. If there's any way you can help me figure this out, i'll appreciated it. Thx.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 39
Registered: Jun-04
ok here goes i got you all set use the 18 x 40x 18 external measurements youll have 5.948 cubic ft. internal air space then add one inch of fiberglass insulation to the inner walls except the top where the woofers drop in. Also make sure you add a center divider splitting the chambers even. Then add two 4 inch pvc ports each chamber 19.75 inches deep that will tune you to about 31 hz after the insulation and woofer baskets displacement. Let me know how she booms.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 40
Registered: Jun-04
that was one 4 inch port 19.75 inches deep per chamber.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 41
Registered: Jun-04
what i typed there for the ports wont work not enough depth. Ill redo and send to forum.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 42
Registered: Jun-04
ok heres the right port length its one four inch (internal) pvc port per chamber 8.3 inches deep you will be tuned to 31.2 hz

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 43
Registered: Jun-04
I need to relax here. you wont be able to fit that port. Lets try this one more time.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 44
Registered: Jun-04
ok this is going to be a tight fit. You will be doing a slot port 11 inches high 1.50 inches wide 10.75 deep each chamber. You figure 16 inches each speaker then space them 2 inches apart from center. That comes out to 34 inches used wide. Then space the ports an inch from the outter walls and an inch and a quarter from the center divider. There you go.

thanks,

in search of bass

 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Whoa there. Thx for all your help, but 18x40x18 is the maximum capicity of my trunk. I'm actually looking to have it custom built on ebay. The enclosure I can fit is 18x36x16.
If 18x40x18 is 5.948 cubic ft., then 18x35x16 should be around 5.5 cubic ft., which is enough. But Kicker recomemded that the maximum is 5cu.ft., so I don't know if it's better @ 5 or higher.

Here's what the Kicker manual recomended.
(maximum) vented volume
5 cu.ft. + port
port = 3x15-1/2x22
power handling = 500

Can you tell me specifically what specifications of the enclosure should be, so I can tell whoever is building it. Thx again for your help.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 45
Registered: Jun-04
Center your ports as well top to bottom. That will be 3.10 cubic ft. per chamber after displacement.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 46
Registered: Jun-04
That would be 4.673 cubic ft. without insulation. 5.607 cubic ft with 2 inches insulation. 6.074 with three inches insulation but isnt recommended according to my boof to go over two inches (20 percent). I have however heard of people going 3 inches (30 percent) with no adverse effects according to them. As far as the ports my minds fried. i dont no how your going to fit them now with the new demensions.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 47
Registered: Jun-04
If you make the ports too small youll have noise out of the ports which is port resistance.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

fallout
Unregistered guest
Ok. So the enclosure should be...
- 3.10 cubic ft. per chamber after displacement??? Is this bigger than 18x35x16?
- 5.607 cubic ft with 2 inches insulation
- 18x35x16
- Center the ports
- Seperate into 2 chambers.
...Now all i need is the port mesurements. If you can't figure it out, just give me your recomendation. Thx
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 48
Registered: Jun-04
This is with your new demensions you gave me as limits. It would be 5.607 with 2 inches insulation 6.074 with 3 inches insulation total meaning including both chamber amounts before displacement. I cant see a way to get the port volocity low enough right now brain needs a rest.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Take all the rest you need. Didn't mean to stress you out there buddy.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 49
Registered: Jun-04
ok here we go. I was thinking about this and the only way your going to get low port volocity and tune to your desired frequency will be to do a slot port with one angle inside the box which 22 and a third inches long and 7 inces high by 4 inches wide for a 31.2 hz tune frequency without angles then add the extra length to account for the bend but i dont remember how much that is but it should only be slight. Put your ports on the side of your box facing the tail of your car and use the extra two inches of breathing space you have left. Use three inches of insulation in the 18 x 35 x 16 external box size you gave me to use. Each chamber should come out to 2.70 cubic ft. after all displacements for woofer and port.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
I'm more a newb than you think, lol. I have no idea what you're talking about so ANY visual aid would help.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
BTW. I've went out to look at sealed enclosures and with a width of 33", the subs can barely fit. I didn't notice this until now, but my subs are little bigger than 15". With a ported enclosure, i don't think 35" will do, cause there won't be any rooom left for a port. I think I have to max out my enclosure to 18x38x16 or 18x40x16 if i have to. I learn by visual so a top view of how the enclosure should look like would be helpful. Sorry for so much trouble and thx for your dedicated help.
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Lol. Even more problems. I think all that thinking you and me did was for nothing. My trunk can fit a width of up to 40" max, but the problem is I wont be able to put it in because the rear of the car curves in!! God Damn, i get the worse of luck!! Now the only solution is to build 2 seperate enclosure. I hope it's easier, less calculation to do.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 51
Registered: Jun-04
Let me know your new demensions to avoid the curve.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 52
Registered: Jun-04
ok bud i found the article on slot ports and bends. It comes with diagram too. Read it carefully it takes some concentration but its not as hard as it seems.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=060743

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 53
Registered: Jun-04
add the rest of that link that isnt highlighted and the link will work.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Ok. The final dimension is 18x19x18. Can I also have your email so i can send you a diagram of how I think the enclosure should look like. You could use windows "Paint" software to edit the picture. "A" and "B" are the measurements I need to know or anything else that i've missed. If you have time, i'll be easier for me if you draw a diagram similar to the link you gave me with the same information, then email it back to me. I know it's a lot to ask, but PLZ i'm desperate. Thx.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 54
Registered: Jun-04
3.142 total box volume 1.57 cubic ft per chamber with divider per chamber with divider minus displacement prb. brings it down to 1.27 cubic with three inches insulation that would be 1.65 cubic ft per chamber my email is sean197224@yahoo.com. I dont have any of those programs you mentioned. I can figure out your ports later.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

Fallout
Unregistered guest
Actually. The enclosure is for one driver. I will build a duplicate of it so it can be placed inside my trunk. Email sent.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 55
Registered: Jun-04
2.757 cf without insulation 3.307 cf with 2 inch of insulation 31.2 hz square ports two of them on the side of your box 4 inches by 4 inches each box 27 inches long so go 9 inches deep then a turn 9 inches deep then a turn 5 inches deep length is lowered because of turns .255 cubic ft taken away from box volume because of wood for port each so heres the conclusion add three inches of insulation and you should be back to 2.75 cf of left over air space after all displacements.


ps...i didnt get your email you sent you must have sent to the wrong address.


thanks,

in search of bass
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 56
Registered: Jun-04
did you remember to give yourself room for the ports to breathe with the 18 x 19 x 18 external measurements? I assumed you did.

thanks,

in search of bass
 

fallout
Unregistered guest
Thx for all ur help. Couldn't have done it without you. Thank you.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 58
Registered: Jun-04
That is two four inch by four inch ports per chamber. Your welcome. Let me know how it booms.

thanks,

in search of bass
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