Looking for components...

 

New member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 8
Registered: Oct-11
Trying to build a nice sq system right now I'm thinking of getting IDMAX on an AQ 1200D for the lows, now I'm looking for the mids and highs. Was thinking of doing either a 6-1/2 or 6-3/4 component set in the front and 6x9s in the back. I drive a Camry so I know the 6-1/2 and 6-3/4 will fit with a bracket in the doors just wondering if there is a major difference between 6-1/2 and 6-3/4 (what Hz they can play) or is it just mounting size? Any suggestions for some good component sets will also be greatly appreciated.
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 323
Registered: Jul-05
personally i would get rid of the 6X9 all together and run some sort of a mid bass dedicated driver... also i did Carola not too long ago for a friend of mine... you are gonna have fun to make your comps fit in the stock location... if the mounting depth is too deep itll hit the window and if you make good rings to pull it out you NEED to cut the door and then its fun to make everything look good... good luck!
 

New member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 10
Registered: Oct-11
If i get a mid bass driver would I need to put it in a box or would it fit somwhere in my car? Well I was looking at getting some boston components will those fit into the doors?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 592
Registered: May-09
There are 6x9 midbass drivers and component sets if you don't want to cut the rear deck, its a good idea to fit plastic enclosures so that the sound waves from the subwoofer do not interact with them.

6 3/4 speakers can provide deeper midbass and increased efficiency due to larger cone surface, but the better way to know is reviewing the specs of your prospect.

An easy way to know the right mounting depth for your car is going here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/app/car/carselector.aspx?lp=%2fApp%2fCar%2foutfitmyca r%2fMyCar.aspx

Enter your car's make, model etc and get suggestions, from the suggestions you find out the right mounting depth, if you can't fit anything you like, modding is necessary as Ricky mentioned.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 12
Registered: Oct-11
Ok thanks Joe you seem to respond to every post and have a great deal of knowledge. Thanks for helping the car audio noobs like me out!You even pointed me in the direction of getting an audio que amp, I read up on it and sounds like a great product!
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 324
Registered: Jul-05
<----- HATES 6x9


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MB-QUART-DWE160-6-5-6-1-2-CAR-AUDIO-MID-BASS-SPEAKER-MID -RANGE-4-OHM-/320759497135?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item4aaec181af on the cheap...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-CADENCE-XM68V-6-5-8-OHM-300W-MID-BASS-CAR-SPEAKERS-?cmd=ViewItem%26item%3D350469866423&pt=Car_Speakers

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MB-Quart-PVI-164-6-5-Midbass-Drivers-Crossover-PVI164-/360394033471?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item53e928893f

WINNER.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-NEO-PRO-8-SUNDOWN-AUDIO-8-CAR-MID-MIDBASS-SUB-MIDRANGE -DRIVER-NEOPRO-8-NEW-/110747989200?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item19c91834d0
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 597
Registered: May-09
Glad to help out Micah, thanks.

I don't beleive most 6.5" midbass drivers would be a lot of help, sure an 8" is good but usually a great deal of effort is needed to properly install.

Not all 6x9s are the same, and are good enough for use for midbass only. (50-120Hz). As full range speakers will probably be poor SQ at mid range frequencies (500-2kHz).

Anyways a suggestion for cheap and excellent SQ 8" midbass drivers can be this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-376
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 13
Registered: Oct-11
Ok well if I was to go 8" midbass would I need 2 or would one be enough you think?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 601
Registered: May-09
Midbass drivers should be driven stereo for best results, so 2 drivers are appropriate, if dual 8"s are too big 7" drivers can be used.

But high quality 6x9 midbass drivers can do the job. Just try avoid full range 6x9s.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 14
Registered: Oct-11
Alright and how do you tune a system thats like that? I'd probably have the sub high passed at 75-80Hz then have the midbass take over from there and overlap a bit? to about 200-250Hz, then have the components doing everything above that. But how do I do something like this?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 605
Registered: May-09
Ok, the exact frequencies depend on the speakers and your preference, you need a sub amp and a 4 channel speakers amp, the best way to split frequencies is by using a 3 way active crossover, the sub amp should handle below 50-60Hz, 2 channels of the speakers amp will handle 50-60 to 120-180Hz and the other 2 channels will handle everything above that.
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 326
Registered: Jul-05
i would disagree a well made 6.5 can be good enough for mid bass especially if they plan on a sub anyway... the difference between a 6.5 and an 8 wont be a whole lot... and a 6.5 can mount to the stock location with an adapter plate... though an enclosure is highly recommended when running them with a sub...

that being said if you are gonna mod the rear deck anyway... that is a good mid bass driver...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-CADENCE-XM108V-800w-10-8-OHM-MID-BASS-CAR-SPEAKERS-/

i would consider these.... and that sundown 8"

in any case...

tuning can be down with your HU crossovers and your amp(s) it is gonna change car to car and preference... but ideally you would bandpass the mid drivers... low pass the sub and highpass the comps...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 15
Registered: Oct-11
Ok kind of out of left field, but I been reading around and researching a bit and some places say rear speakers aren't really even necessary and they could actually hurt your "stage" by making too much sound come from behind you. So now my question is will putting midbass in my rear speakers really even help my system? Or should I save myself the trouble of modifying the rear deck and doing a 3-way crossover system.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 608
Registered: May-09
What you read refers to full range speakers not midbass drivers, which can move the "soundstage" backwards and introduce time delay issues.

Now honestly you need to find out if you really care about that, if you frequently carry people on the back and you only have bass back there, they are going to feel left out. So regarding taste you need to make your mind on your own.

Midbass drivers fill the gap between the small speakers on the front and the big subs on the back and I think that they are really necessary for well balanced frequency response, and accuracy, then again that's only a school of thinking.

You can start by using the sub and a component set in the front and see if you like the results, if not you can add the midbass drivers later, just make sure that your speakers amp is 4 channel, so that you can perform the upgrade later.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 16
Registered: Oct-11
Ok that sounds like a good idea getting a solid front first. I don't really have many people in the back, just my siblings who can really care less about sound most of the people that would care would ride passenger seat. Any suggestions for a solid 4 channel amp? I was looking at the AQ 4x90
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 611
Registered: May-09
That AQ is full range class D amplifier and I really prefer class A/B amps for full range, I guess the components and the amp should be considered together, do you have a component set in mind or a budget in mind for all?? prices vary dramatically and can get literally insane:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21553_Focal-No.-7.html
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 17
Registered: Oct-11
Yeah I have a budget in mind. I was gonna get the Boston pro comps, I have a budget of about 1500 before install. The IDMAX's are $400 the AQ 1200d for it is $270. So I have about $800 left for the components and amplifier. Those Focal's are a bit out of my budget :p
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 328
Registered: Jul-05
Consider this for your comp amp... http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9257-sax-1004d-sundown-audio-100w-4-channel-amplifie r.aspx that way if you should decide you want rears... easy to add...

one option...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7755_Focal-165-A1.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAINBOW-SLX-265-DELUXE-6-5-New-2-Way-Component-Speaker-/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXIMO-6-5-MOREL-6-5-2-WAY-PRO-CAR-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/626CR-CDT-AUDIO-6-5-REAR-FILL-SPEAKERS-COMPONENT-/

this comes with a coaxial rear fill.... that means it is a full range speaker... you would run these two rear fills in series bridged and using your filters set them up so they are band passed... (MID RANGE)

I own CDT and I love them... but many dont like them others could take em or leave them... Focal is an awesome brand... really any of these speakers would make you happy...
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 614
Registered: May-09
For SQ an Arc Audio/Audison amps are the right stuff (among some others of course), for speakers depending heavily on taste Focal/Rainbow are top choices BUT Focal sound is very different to Rainbow sound so again the right choice depends heavily on taste.

There is a high end audio rule of thumb that I believe to be fairly right: "you should spend twice on speakers than what you will spend on amps" so a right mix would be a 250-300 amp and the rest on speakers.

I would like you to think a little about this before throwing specific options.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 18
Registered: Oct-11
@ Ricky- I was actually looking at the sundown amp I was thinking a 4 channel will be a good idea incase I ever wanted to add onto the system. Speakers, I am kind of set on getting Boston pro60's sorry for making you post all those links.

@ Joe- Thanks for that rule I'll keep that in mind when I shop around.

Well have any of you purchased from sonicelectronix.com? Are they a reliable seller?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 618
Registered: May-09
From time to time I have advised stuff that people purchased there without a problem, you can also search for stuff on:

www.onlinecarstereo.com

Unhappily those sites do not carry a lot of hi-end brands, mainly mainstream stuff.

And this but they are rather expensive, they carry many hi-end brands:

http://www.woofersetc.com/

You can deal directly with some audio manufacturers so always check.

And very important regarding components is mounting depth, know that info or you may have a hard time to install.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 19
Registered: Oct-11
Well I used crutchfield to see if the components fit so I'm going to assume they fit. Thanks for the sites definately gonna read into it, living in the middle of the ocean doesn't really help with being able to check alot of stuff out before I buy...
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 619
Registered: May-09
Of course it doesn't help Micah, and shipping costs go up, anyways post if you have any questions.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 20
Registered: Oct-11
Sorry a bit off topic but on another thread you said IDMAX's work better in larger enclosures than an Fi Q how large of an enclosure should an IDMAX go into? And better sealed or ported tuned to what?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 623
Registered: May-09
This is straight from their technical sheet:

Upload

Exact model is iDMAX 12D4 V.3

I guess the "NORMAL" will suffice for most people.
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 330
Registered: Jul-05
@Micah Why are you stuck on boston acoustics? Personally i do not like them at all... Just wondering, have you heard any of these other brands that have been recommended or even the ones you think you want? Along with the other rule joe said... "If you you like the sound and they are good quality get them, and dont let people give you cr@p about them..."

Would you consider used? Caraudioclassifieds.org

@Joe That is an excellent rule, however there are exceptions to it... I deff spent more on my amp than my speakers... But then again my speakers were a steal lol
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 22
Registered: Oct-11
I haven't heard any of the other brands recommended only heard Boston's I liked them even tho they were kind of bright I liked how loud they got too.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 626
Registered: May-09
If you already liked the BAs just buy them, anyways from the fact that you found the BAs bright I can tell you would hate Focal and love Rainbow, they have a smooth very detailed sound that won't upset your ears, their top model is 6K but there are good ones for 250-400. I am just the opposite I like bright speakers.
 

Silver Member
Username: Thelonewolf

New Ipswich, NH USA

Post Number: 332
Registered: Jul-05
bright just means you need to go a little off axis... otherwise... OUCH and perm hearing damage lol...
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 627
Registered: May-09
Focal's tweeters are wide dispersion so not that easy...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 23
Registered: Oct-11
Yeah well I'm sure about the Boston's I don't think anything I read online was going to really sway me. Since you guys are replying on this thread if I was going to get a XS power D1200 would I replace my current stock battery with it or keep the stock battery in and use both batteries?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 630
Registered: May-09
There is a problem having 2 batteries, if you happen to go low charge, the alternator will have a harder time recharging both, I think that for stock alternators a simple battery upgrade is the better choice.

Regarding speakers, unhappily you don't have much of a way to listen to alternatives, but there is no problem, overtime we almost always upgrade it's the curse/blessing of high end audio.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 24
Registered: Oct-11
Will the XS D1200 be able to power my system? I'm gonna have about 1600 WRMS
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 633
Registered: May-09
Micah better list your system as you currently decided and the exact model of your car and year most stock alts can't keep up with 1600W RMS.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 25
Registered: Oct-11
I wanted to go:
HU: Alpine iDA-X305
Speaker: Boston Acoustic's Pro60 comp set
Sub: IDMAX v3 D2
Amps: SAX 1200D SAX100.4D

2009 Toyota Camry LE
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 640
Registered: May-09
Your Camry is supposed to have a 100A alternator which is above average, if you don't run the sub out of spec it will be 1K RMS and 120W RMS for the Bostons, let say you brigde it to 2 channel, now average power for music is lower than RMS power.

Estimated average current draw from audio:
(0.6x(1000/0.85 +120/0.70))/12 = 67A at max output.

Alternator current rating is 100A for your car.

The XS D1200 is more than enough also.

Even if you added midbass drivers later it will hold. No problems.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 656
Registered: May-09
Sorry Micah the Bostons are 125W per CHANNEL so:

Estimated average current draw from audio:
(0.6x(1000/0.85 +250/0.70))/12 = 76A at max output.

Happily the previous conclusions do not change

If you add the midbass drivers there will only be 100W per channel for the bostons.
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