Wirering and settings
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New member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 9 Registered: Jul-11 | i have a audiopipe APSM-1300 amp and i will be hooking up in Parallel two Pyle PL1090BL 10-Inch 1000 Watt DVC Subwoofer the rms on these subs it suppose to be 1000 watts that's what it said at the sears PL1090BL site, and they are 4 ohms. i'm hooked up to an after market alpine cde-122 the high outputs go into the existing factory bose sound system and the low level outputs are rca'd into the apsm-1300 it also has a bass nob remote. what i need to know is how to set the bass boot its rang is 0db to 12db also the bass boost frequency it has a range of 30hz to 80hz,also the subsonic which has a range of off to 50hz, then there is the LPF it has a range of 40hz to a 180hz, last is the GAIN its settings are min to max. i need to know how to set these... also is a 4 gauge amp wiring kit good enough to use or should i go with a 8 gauge wiring kit? also by hooking up the two subs in Parallel will i be at 1 ohm? the amp is stable at 1 ohm with a rms of 1000 watts also i have a vented box which fits in the space behind the third set but it only fits if my subs fire upwards is that ok to fire them up? |
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New member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 10 Registered: Jul-11 | i forgot but i need to know if i should hook up the dvc pyles 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel? or should i hook them up 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 446 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert I remember you from a while here is your original thread: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/689575.html To create a total load of one ohm you should wire the coils of the speakers in parallel BUT positive to positive and negative to negative on each sub then the subs should be connected in parallel to the amplifier.Take a look:  The most important thing is this in the bottom face of the amp there is a control marked as GAIN set it almost to MIN before you turn in your system. The SUBSONIC knob set it to 1/3 The bass boot set it to 0dB The bass boost frequency set it to 50Hz The LPF set it to 60Hz AGAIN the GAIN knob set it to MIN to start or the subs could get damaged. 4 gauge is thicker than 8 gauge do not use 8 gauge use 4 gauge. The other very important thing is the ground connection to the chassis must be sanded to bare metal and tightly bolted or problems will occur. All other connections should be as tight as possible. Before start wiring disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 11 Registered: Jul-11 | me again :P how do i know if my subs should be in a ported or sealed box? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 447 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert usually, enclosure size and port tuning must be calculated with a set of formulas or special software. Usually a bigger sealed enclosure is you best bet. A misaligned ported enclosure can damage the speakers if playing loud frequently. at lower volumes is safe to use but may sound not very good. But have the subs firing upwards is not a problem, |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 12 Registered: Jul-11 | hey joe thank you again for your help and the diagram and settings |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 13 Registered: Jul-11 | hey joe, sorry i didn't know i had to stick with my original thread ill stick to this one if i have anymore questions. sorry again |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 467 Registered: May-09 | No Robert you can open any threads you want its just that sticking with a thread helps having all infos in one place, so its more convenient. One other thing I missed commenting on is that the GAIN knob should be set at minimum when you connect for the first time but then there is a procedure that I have not told to set that gain for daily use avoiding blowing the subs, when you have made all connections let me know to comment on the head unit- amp gain settings procedure. Regards. |
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Bronze Member Username: Dcollister440Post Number: 50 Registered: Jun-11 | what is the procedure...i'm getting my amps hooked up tonight and having a bass knob hooked up too....what should you do? |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 14 Registered: Jul-11 | ok got it. ill be ordering my second sub on the 23rd i should have it by the 30th then on the 1st ill order my box and install kit on the first i should have them on the 5th then ill be ready to go. i have two box es in miind the boxs is here if you want to evaluate my choices... http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E10D-10-Inch-Sealed-Boxes/dp/B0013MWT8A and here..... http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-10-CAR-AUDIO-SUBWOOFER-SUB-SPEAKER-ENCLOSURE-BOX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4841d0ef4fQQitemZ310341857103QQptZLHQ5f the install kit is here.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-GA-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation-Amp-Car-Wiring-Kit-/230673422718 ok thats all i got |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 477 Registered: May-09 | This one is better by far: http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E10D-10-Inch-Sealed-Boxes/dp/B0013MWT8A The wiring kit is OK but check if 20 ft is the right length. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 15 Registered: Jul-11 | ok ill be getting the Atrend E10D B Box Series 10-Inch Dual Sealed Bass Box ok that said the yukon is 14 1/2 feet front bumper to rear bumper i figure 20ft kit will compensate for the routing under the hood through the firewall then through the dash then down both sides of the vehicle im gonna put the rca down one side of the vehicle then the power cable down the other side along with the power remote i have a good ground in the back under the drivers side panel it has no paint on it. its bare metal and bolted to the chassis. i have a machine shop here that im going to get 4 steel hallowed dowels length being one inch and a half and i'm going to mount the amp on them. so the amp will set an 1"1/2 above the carpet it will be mounted on a 3/4" wood pad inserted under the carpet this system is small but i think its going to sound nice |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 479 Registered: May-09 | All seems fine for the installation you describe, just when you turn on for the first time make sure that the amp is not bolted, the reason is that the initial setup requires you to move the knobs below the amp from their starting positions I commented on earlier, once that is done you can then bolt it.Yes, good ventilation for the amp is a good idea. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 16 Registered: Jul-11 | well...i got some bad news im getting my second sub and my box here on the first but im going to have to wait on the install kit till the 23rd of october i have to fly to california my uncle is dying of canser i need to go see him before he dies so i need the money we sould be good to go by the 1st of november. i hope it doesnt snow i dont want install it in the cold lol i read in a forum that i have to break in my subs before i push them to hard do you know about this? and my amp came with a remote bass knob what is that is it a volume control or just a gain adjustment? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 522 Registered: May-09 | Well the break in period is about a few days of use after the installation of a new sub, what happens is that the sub won't hit low notes very well at first, but it's not like it's going to blow from that. About the bass knob, they are popular right now, some are a tone control similar to the bass control on your head unit, others are in fact a remote controlled input gain, I wouldn't recommend it's use since a mistake can blow the subs. Sorry about the bad news, whatever you do don't install until you have plenty of time since a mistake can put your investment up in smoke. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfColumbia, South Carolina Post Number: 14542 Registered: Dec-03 | break-in period for any speaker is just a matter of loosening up the spider so it's not so stiff. The sub's sound will change over the course of the first hundred hours or so of use. Just let it happen. There really isn't much you can do to "speed up" the process. The sub will sound better as it breaks in. You can play them any way you like while they break in. You aren't going to damage them as long as the power going to the subs is clean and free of distortion and clipped signal. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 17 Registered: Jul-11 | i think i made a mistake but i had the first sub for more than 30 days days and they wouldnt let me return it. so i just bought another hoping they would be ok but ive been reading forums and it doesnt look good oh well |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 554 Registered: May-09 | Yeah, those are far from ideal but don't worry I will help to set them up in a way that sound well and don't blow. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 18 Registered: Jul-11 | the wirering kit comes with 12gauge speaker wire is that going to be good enough or do i need to buy monster cable and what gauge should it be? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 579 Registered: May-09 | Yes Robert, the 12 gauge is good for those subs so no problem there. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 19 Registered: Jul-11 | ok the wiring kit came today and my box left denver 6am this morning so it should be here tomorrow the wiring kit came with a rca cable that came with built in remote wire but they also sent me a 20ft remote cable which should i use? now im just waiting on the firewall bushing i looked all over grand junction i found rubber gromets but i would rather put a bushing on it. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 600 Registered: May-09 | That's something I have never heard of, RCAs with a remote on cable integrated, I guess if the set is long enough to reach your amp you should definitely use the integrated one, you could even test right now how should the wire be routed from the head unit. Only that set should go in that route, the power cable coming from the battery should be routed elsewhere. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 20 Registered: Jul-11 | I have got a question im a little confused about the parallel wiring. On my amp i have four outputs two positive and two negative the owners manual shows how to hookup two subs from the outputs.the outputs are from left to right are - - + + in the diagram i have from you it shows both the positive and negative coming off of one lead split between each sub can i go one positive and one negative to one sub then the other sub hooked up to the other set of outputs i think that if i do it that way i only get to two ohms i think? :P or should i just come off of one set of outputs and split it between both subs to get one ohm? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 609 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert, the amp is one channel only, the reason you see more terminals than two is convenience, so you don't have to fit many wires on a single terminal, you can do as you say, wire one sub with one set of terminals and the other with the other set of terminals, just make sure you wire the the 4 terminals on each sub as shown in the diagram. positive to positive and negative to negative, that is very important. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 21 Registered: Jul-11 | ok i understand now i just got through wiring up the subs now i just need the box i wired them just like the diagram you gave me kk |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 610 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert let me know if you have any questions as you install everything in the box. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 22 Registered: Jul-11 | well i got my box today but i have no time i fly out 5:30 am. this time tomorrow ill be in cali i still have to buy a drill saw to cut out the hole in the firewall but like i say got no time cyas when i get back. |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 642 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert wish you well on your trip, also when you get back I would look for an existing hole that all firewalls have to pass through the power cable before considering opening a new one. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 23 Registered: Jul-11 | k im back its been raining for two days here in colorado if weather permits im going start looking for a preexisting hole in the firewall big enough for this 4gauge power cable my father said to look for a rubber plug in the firewall he said usually the foam Insulation will not cover it on the inside but if i have to drill a hole its all good ive got a firewall bushing the 10s are installed in the box |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 743 Registered: May-09 | Yes, Robert, of course if it needs to be done then just do it, however I can tell you it's basically never the case, there is always this access that usually is on the driver side, even if it seems that it won't fit, it will, maybe if you were trying to fit a 3/0 then that could be a problem, regarding the subs, just I would like to remind you (yet again) of the polarity of the coils, a guy over here just blew 2 of his 4 subs that way. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 24 Registered: Jul-11 | ok i hooked up the subs just like the diagram you posted here i came from the positive terminal inside the box to the positive coil terminal then i jumped across to the positive terminal on the opposite coil then i hooked up the negative on the inside of the box to the opposite negative coil terminal opposite from the positive coil terminal i had hooked up first then i jumped across to the negative coil terminal opposite from that coil terminal and i hooked up the second sub the same way |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 746 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert, seems good, you know, blowing subs is a bad way to start an install. On another note, if your box came without damping material on the inside walls it could make sense to put some, in the future (not important right now). Let me know if you have any questions as you install. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 25 Registered: Jul-11 | ok ive done an exhaustive search on the fire wall no preexisting holes are on the firewall 'besides where there are already are bolts or wiring in the holes' this fire wall is covered with foam rubber on the inside and on the outside of the firewall there is a square area about 2x2 inches that is not covered with foam rubber on the outside of the firewall and there is a corresponding 2x2 inch bare patch exposing the firewall on insides. it is easy access for a drill on the outside of the fire wall. i think they ment for it to be a place to drill a hole. i have a watertight bushing i bought http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15904_StreetWires-FB0.html just for that purpose. now i have to wait til next week to buy a hole saw drill bit set for $40 no one here in this one horse town sells just the hole saw drill bit i need so i have to buy a set im going to run all the wiring tomorrow. now i need to unhook the negative battery terminal while im wiring up right? and the fuse goes 8 to 18 inches from the battery? i was going to use hard plastic pedestals to raise the amp up off the carpet but i was worry about the amp heat melting them thats why im having a machine shop cut me metal tubing for that what do you think? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 748 Registered: May-09 | Well, you do what you need to do, I would just test to push in your 4AWG cable in the hole full of cables, believe me it will fit along with the other wires, push like a meter of it and it will be easy for you to pick up on the inside, if you need to open a new hole just make sure nothing gets damaged (easy!). The gland you purchased may be too big for a 4AWG just make sure that it fits tight on the 4AWG wire before installing it. Correct, to be safe, remove the negative terminal of the battery and the fuse should be near the battery, hard to melt the plastic on normal temps but metal is safer so I think there is no issue with that. One other thing the 2x2 gap you see is most likely there due to manufacturing process needs and not as an access signal you should be very careful to check both sides. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 26 Registered: Jul-11 | you were right about that spot i thought was a patch to drill through so i went back to the hunt and i FOUND IT!! WOOT it was behind a fuse link box that i had to unmount to get to it. its a inch and 1/2 diameter rubber grommet with an 1/8 inch diameter wire going through the middle i pulled the grommet and took a flat screwdriver and punched a hole next to the 1/8 inch wire then ill just put my pwr through it but right now i have to go see my doctor my disability has had me down for 4 days couldnt hardly move question. is there enough insulation around my 4qauge to not pick up any noise from the wire its next to? nearest i can tell the 1/8 inch wire is to operate the windshield wipers |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 771 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert, sorry that you are not feeling well right now. I hope you get better. Regarding your question, noise issues are a problem on signal lines, like the RCAs but not that much on power lines so don't be very much concerned about that, just do not run signal lines along with power lines, route them apart. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 27 Registered: Jul-11 | ok i ran into snag while i was running the low inputs the ramote line broke off they did send me in the kit a blue remote wire that ill have to run now. is it ok to run the remote on the same side as the low lvl outputs rca? im almost ready to hook everything up just got to run this remote ok |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 797 Registered: May-09 | I think you can Robert, just remember that from the HU side it goes connected to the White/Blue wire not the Blue wire, also you should not bolt the amplifier yet since you have to setup your gains and other stuff and as you know the controls are in the bottom. Also to think about the final settings it would be useful to know what speakers are you using and where did you install them. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 28 Registered: Jul-11 | ok i just ran the remote down the power side ok all wiring is done i just need to plug it into the amp and box i ran out of day light finish tomorrow yes the remote is hooked up to the blue wire with the white stripe, the ground is solid had to buy a special battery post to hook up the power ok my head unit is an after market alpine cde-122 the system in it right now is a bose system with a bose amp it pushes 8 speakers and a 6inch subwoofer 4 tweeters front and rear and 4 in door speakers. ok the The SUBSONIC knob is set to 1/3 theThe bass boot is set to 0dB the bass boost frequency is set to 50Hz The LPF is set to 60Hz gain is at minimum. the head unit has two different ways to setup subwoofer one in search mode and in regular audio mode |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 805 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert you say your amp grounding is solid then ok. The settings you just posted are perfectly fine for first time turn on but they must be changed while the system is working to their final positions, for that reason the amp should not be bolted just yet. When the final settings are done you just turn off, remove the inline fuse at the battery and bolt the amp. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 29 Registered: Jul-11 | heres the low down of my deck. i have an audio button if i push it twice it brings up the the menus for subw, bass, middle, treble,bal,fad,loud,defeat, then there is the setup mode you hold the audio button down until setup mode appears. then you select audio then you turn the rotary encoder to select the desired sound setting menu the menus are Factory EQ, Band EQ, HPF, Subwoofer, Subw LPF, Subw Phase, Subw sys,. the selections under factory EQ are..user,flat,pops,rock,news,jazz,elec dance,ect..ect then under 3band EQ once you choose bass you can select, width Q , center FRQ, level. then you can under width Q you can set the bass bandwidth to wide 0.50, Medium 1.00, Medium 1.50, Narrow 2.00. next if you choose center FRQ it has the choices of 60Hz, 80Hz, the initial settings are 100Hz, 120Hz, then if you choose Level it goes from -7 to +7 i think thats all of the settings for bass i have mid level adjustments also if you want them to ? |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 30 Registered: Jul-11 | OK OK OK its all hooked up and the subs work !!! WOOT but i didnt turn it up past setting 2 just to see if they were working kinda low thought of course the gain is all the way down but what next? |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 808 Registered: May-09 | Great Robert!, the next step is to avoid damage to the system in everyday use. Be reminded that your amp is too powerful for the subs. 1) higher the volume on your head unit as high as you will ever listen and you hear no distortion at all. 2) higher the gain on the amp until the bass you are getting is loud enough and you hear no bass distortion of any kind. This procedure leaves you a little exposed to damage, let me know if you want to go with the safer longer method. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 31 Registered: Jul-11 | ok i turned up the gain to half and i cant turn it up past 4 on the head unit and the cones start moving like heavy you werent joking when you said this amp will blow these subs quick.so i think id like to do the safer longer method heh did you get my post about the bass settings on my deck? even at the volume setting at 4 you can feel the base go through your chest heh any higher volume and i think it will rip those woofers apart. i wont have any more money till february to get some better woofs |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 814 Registered: May-09 | Yes, Robert I read both of your previous posts, I am familiar with the functions of the CDE-122. First off congrats, you have a working system. The idea of the setup process is that you will be able to turn the volume all the way up and you will still be on a level that (in most cases) is safe for your subs to play and also to your other speakers. My first question is if you can control the gain on the bose system amplifier. Don't worry it won't take many questions to make sure I am advising the right thing. |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 32 Registered: Jul-11 | no i cant adjust the gain on the bose amp i replaced it when i bought it and there were no adjustments nobs on it |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 815 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert, a full procedure can't be done because of that so as long as you don't have more powerful subwoofers it would be better to avoid use bass boosting on the amp. By the test you did now we know that going halfway the gain is too much. So follow this steps: 1) on the head unit defeat (level set to zero) all tone controls, including the subwoofer level and loudness should be off 2) set HPF to 60Hz on the HU. 3) lower the gain on the amp all the way down. 4) your volume is 0-35 so play a few tracks to determine the maximum level you can go without your speakers distorting (not the subs). 5) with the music on at the maximum level you determined say 20 (0-35) start turning up the gain to a point that you can hear light to moderate bass. 6) Done. So why light to moderate bass? well, because your tone controls and bass level will now control the bass sent to the amp AND in case you lost your settings like when your battery goes low, you will return to a state not harmful to the subs. Overtime you can fine tune your system as you get to know it better, The final position of the gain should be below one half. So play with it until you are comfortable with the result and then you can bolt the amp. If you ever get better subs then you can set a different gain level that reflects more powerful subs. Let me know how it went! |
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Bronze Member Username: RobertbockmanyahoocomPost Number: 33 Registered: Jul-11 | the head unit defeat is off HPF set to 60Hz on the HU. gain is at minimum, all tone controls in the HU turned off light to moderate bass test done i played with the gain at about a 1/4 and it rocks thanx man thanx allot with out you i would have made allot of mistakes i know i would have blown these subs i will need your help in February im gonna buy some better subs k cyas ) |
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Silver Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 826 Registered: May-09 | Ok Robert I am really glad you succeded, you can up the treble all you want without risking the subs. I can help you get better subs when you want to change them. Best of luck, and if you have any questions at any time let me know. |
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New member Username: Beak555Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-11 | what does it mean when your headlights go dim the the beat of the bass? lol |
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