Help on new speakers!

 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 44
Registered: Jun-11
So I want to get some new speakers in my car. It is a 2000 volvo s40 and has 2 Boston Acoustics S50 speakers in the front doors and two (I think stock) 5.25" speakers with tweeters in the back. Also 2 tweeters in the dash. I have 2 subwoofers so I dont need a lot of midbass but I just want something that will go louder and be really clean. Im an SQ guy for sure. I am trying to find something that can be run off my head unit Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 22W RMS with 6 pre outs. I only upgraded the door speakers the first time so I want to know whether I should just upgrade those again or do all of them and what is a good choice that will sound significantly better than the boston/stock speakers. I am thinking Alpine Type S?.....or would it be better to just run the speakers I have now off of an amplifier to give them more power. So basically should I get new front speakers, all new speakers, or get an amp for current speakers. Thanks!
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 143
Registered: May-09
Right, just by using an amplifier you will get louder but also sound quality will improve significantly, the downside is that you will have to do a lot of wiring but if you ask me its well worth the effort and the money.

Also slightly larger speakers will get louder like 6.5" over the 5.25"

By the way those small speakers wont deliver much midbass, and you must lack bass almost completely. If you are not interested in bass its ok, its not essential to SQ systems (but a small sub should help).

The most important thing to know is how much effort and money would you like to put in.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 45
Registered: Jun-11
Idk how to wire it so I would have someone do it for me. I looked at the holes for the speaker and im not sure if it would be able to fit 6.5 inch speakers either because it looked like the 5.25's barely fit. So going from 22W RMS to like 50 RMS would be a lot different?....but I have 2 IDMAX 12's in the trunk so I have plenty of bass. Just want to be able to turn it louder and not sound like s***
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 46
Registered: Jun-11
Also should I keep the 5.25 speakers in the rear deck?....I have no clue what they are or how much power they take so I wouldnt wanna blow them by getting an amp.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 144
Registered: May-09
OK 2 IDMAX! obviously you have an amp back there, that makes it easier to add an amp there for your other speakers.

First off I don't like the boston's budget line at all. However I would first try to add a good quality amp and see if you are satisfied. It will make a BIG difference, say a 4 channels 75-90W RMS per channel.

I was wondering which amp do you have for the subs and I guess you are using 2 preouts to provide signal to it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1259
Registered: Jun-06
In your Volvo, the Dash holds a 3-1/2" Speaker. The front door holds a 5-1/4" Speaker and the rear holds 6-1/2" Speakers.

The Boston Acoustics S50 component Speakers you have are great Speakers, so I would recommend keeping those. Only problem is that you are not even giving them a third of the Watts they need to really scream. If possible, I would look into a small 4-channel Amplifier that you can use on those, as well and the rear 6-1/2" Speakers.

For your rear Speakers, I would suggest looking into the Boston Acoustics S60 Speakers to match your current Speakers. They both require 55 Watts RMS, so all we need to do now is find a 4-channel Amplifier to power them.

Oh, what's this? A great 4-channel Amplifier and Wiring Kit that you can use on your front and rear Speakers:

Rockford Fosgate PRIME R300-4:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19566_Rockford-Fosgate-PRIME-R300-4.html

Kicker 09PK8 / PK8:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17772_Kicker-09PK8-PK8.html

Overall, your looking at a $300 upgrade, which is hardly anything compaired to how much better it's going to sound. I wouldn't even worry about the 3-1/2" Speakers you have in the Dash. Just uninstall them for Weight Reduction purposes ;)
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1260
Registered: Jun-06
My bad, forgot to post the link to the Bost Acoustics S60 Speakers. Here it is:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4284_Boston-Acoustics-S60.html
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 47
Registered: Jun-11
I have a Hifonics 2610 Mono in the back.....so I should buy 6x9's for the back...cuz theyre definitely 5.25's right now....will 75-90 RMS on a 55RMS speaker be too much power tho?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 145
Registered: May-09
It will be no problem having a 75-90W on 55W speakers you just control the gain, if you later decide to change the speakers you will have the reserve power, since you are into SQ I would choose something a little more SQ oriented than rockford or kicker.

Also if you decided to go for 6x9's you will have the power its just that those speakers are not usually recommended in SQ systems unless those are high quality midbass drivers.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 48
Registered: Jun-11
for the amp?....or new speakers
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 146
Registered: May-09
Its important to know how much are you willing to spend for a new amp.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 49
Registered: Jun-11
Idk....I would like to do everything for like $400 if possible...including installs....i might go for a used amp on craigslist or something
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1261
Registered: Jun-06
Did you even see my post above? ^
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 50
Registered: Jun-11
Sorry must have skipped over all of that....so doing all that would make it sound amazing?...atleast compared to how it does now?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 147
Registered: May-09
Ok amps for SQ oriented usage you can look at:

lower level: JL audio,Alpine.
intermediate to high: Phoenix gold, Arc Audio, Audison.

Those are just a few..

If you are going used you will have to search prices yourself.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1262
Registered: Jun-06
Boston Acoustics makes great Speakers. Even their entry level Speakers sound great when put on an Amplifier.

With your budget of $400, this is perfect. Your keeping your original Boston Acoustics, getting a matching pair, and getting a great Amplifier at a very cheap price to power them, and saving $100.

If you have never heard an Amplified Speaker before, your going to be in for a big surprise.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 51
Registered: Jun-11
Does it matter that much what brand amp as long as its good....Ive never heard of amps being SQ/SPL oriented
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 148
Registered: May-09

EDIT: Well there are amps that are SQ oriented its just that those are not as well known as mainstream brands.

Yes all amps in the intermediate to high will make a system sound amazing for sure.

(Phoenix gold, Arc Audio, Audison)

Obviously the speakers should be reassessed after the amp upgrade, there are speakers much better than the bostons.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 149
Registered: May-09
Joe S and myself agree completely on this: the amp should go first, as the bostons deserve a chance.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1264
Registered: Jun-06
Yea... I've never neard that either... So idk what Joe Durkham is talking about there...

Anyway, as long as the Amplifier is putting out anywhere from 50-70 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms, it will work fine. Just make sure the Amplifier is CEA-2006 Compliant before you purchase it.

Here are a few other suggestions in 4-channel Amplifiers you can look into:

Kicker ZX350.4:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21950_Kicker-ZX350.4-10ZX350.4.html

Alpine MRP-F300:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12020_Alpine-MRP-F300.html

JL Audio JX360/4:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33530_JL-Audio-JX360-4.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 150
Registered: May-09
Joe S: have you not heard of these brand names??

Phoenix gold, Arc Audio, Audison

Of those Joe S mention the JL Audio and the Alpine are OK BUT not as good as the above for an SQ system.

(For the bostons alone 50-70W will be fine but if he decided to upgrade a little more power will be needed specially if he goes for midbass drivers)
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1269
Registered: Jun-06
Those are just suggestions Joe Durkham. Doesn't mean that those are the only amplifier's in the world that ccleaven can get.

Of course i've heard of those brands. Im just not going to spend half an hour just looking for suggestions on every brand available is all.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 151
Registered: May-09
ccleaven, you have some great suggestions I think you get the idea of course there are more options, you can get any of those used for very reasonable prices. If you would like more options ask.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 52
Registered: Jun-11
Yeah thank you all for everything....I'll look tomorrow at work and see whats out there.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 152
Registered: May-09
Happy hunting ccleaven, the Arc Audios are amazing amps wish you could at least take a listen at one.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 53
Registered: Jun-11
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D390330908321&fromMakeTrac k=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

What about this?....I know hifonics isnt true rms but it should be around 60 rms right?....and it would match my other hifonics amp too
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1274
Registered: Jun-06
link doesn't work ccleaven
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 54
Registered: Jun-11
http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-ZEUS-ZXI40-4-320w-RMS-4-CH-AMPLIFIER-WIRE-KIT-/3903 30908321?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item5ae188fea1
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1275
Registered: Jun-06
the listing is no longer available now, lol.

Just post the model of the amplifier.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 55
Registered: Jun-11
Effin A!!! haha

Hifonics Zeus ZX 140.4
80RMS X4 @ 4 ohms
And a cadence 4 gauge wiring kit for $130 total
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 56
Registered: Jun-11
sorry i40.4
not 140
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 154
Registered: May-09
Hifonics is pretty good for bass amps but if you want SQ on your speakers you should look at least for JL, Audio Alpine, PPI, Phoenix gold, zapco are good and should not be too expensive (180-250) if you want to place something like 6x9s or component sets 80-90W per channel is about right.

Now if you are on a budget then different options are needed
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 155
Registered: May-09
To give you an idea:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Precision-Power-PPI-S580-4-4-channel-amplifier-/190564044485 ?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2c5e808ec5
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1276
Registered: Jun-06
The Hifonics Zeus ZXi40.4 only puts out 40 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms. It will be able to power all four Boston Acoustics Speakers just fine, so if that's what you want to purhase, then go for it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 57
Registered: Jun-11
Whoops I was looking at it for 2 ohms....I want something with a bit more power than that. What about the ZXi80.4? Is 80 too much for a 55W speaker? I also heard Hifonics are rated a little higher than actual true power
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 58
Registered: Jun-11
I also found a JL G4500 (80W rms @ 4 ohms) for $150 on CL...should I do that?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1279
Registered: Jun-06
Yes, you could use the Hifonics Zeus ZXi80.4 to get maximize the Watts going to the Speakers. Just make sure that when you are tuning the Amplifier, to not turn the Gain Setting too high.

The JL G4500 would be a better choice for your Speakers. This amplifier only puts out the 80 Watts RMS with 14.4 Volts and 60 Watts RMS with 12.5 Volts. Depending on your electrical system, this Amplifier will get the gob done.

So if you don't mind spending more and the JL Audio Amplifier actually works, then yes, I would suggest grabbing it. If you need to save money, look into the Hifonics Zeus ZXi80.4 and get a brand new Amplifier.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 156
Registered: May-09
If you don't want to go for more expensive high end stuff that one should do just fine in any SQ system and the power handling is solid enough as well.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 59
Registered: Jun-11
The guy said he would do $130 and depending on the condition when I see it ill do that. I dont have any upgraded electrical stuff so I would assume its 12.5 volts but the 60W should be good for the speakers so it sounds like a good deal. Would I need to get a good wiring kit (stinger, rockford, kicker) or would I be allright with a 4 gauge walmart brand for like $40
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 60
Registered: Jun-11
Also the JL says it doesnt have any onboard fuses on it. That seems weird to me but it might not be because I don't know too much about it.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 159
Registered: May-09
Don't worry as to how JL Audio protects internally the amp, just make sure the amp is in good condition, normally a car when on should have 14.4V voltage but yes even 60W RMS into 4 ohm will do just fine.

If you are concerned about the JL having no fuse add a distribution block with proper fuses for each amp.

If you are going to have this installed let the installer evaluate the cables you already have for the HiFonics.Those may just be enough for both amps, it may only take adding the distribution block to power both amps.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 61
Registered: Jun-11
Ok....they are 4 gauge Stinger wires for power and ground and rockford rca's/remote/speaker wire....would i need to turn the gains way down because it puts out 80 rms to a 55 rmw speaker?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 160
Registered: May-09
If your bass amp is the Hifonics BXi 2610D then you should be using 0 gauge!! and electrical system upgrades!! to support the full power of the amp. So have that checked!!

Right, you should wire with 2 RCAs from the HU to the 4 channel amp, set the gains very low to start (detailed procedure later), its also important when you have two or more amps to balance the gains between them for optimal sound quality but I guess that can be addressed by your installer or after the installation is done.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1280
Registered: Jun-06
Unless you upgrade the 4 Gauge wire to 0, 0/1, or 2 Gauge wire, you will not be able to add a Distribution Block onto your current setup.

The JL Audio G4500 is able to accept up to 4 Gauge wire, but you should be fine with 8 Gauge. Here is a kit from Kicker that you can look into:

Kicker CK8:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3936_Kicker-CK8.html

Like you stated above, the JL Audio G4500 does not come with built-in fuses like other Amplifiers and because of this, you are going to leave your Amplifier wide open for receiving damage if your Inline-Fuse ever fails.

To prevent this, you can add an additional fuse within' 1ft of the Amplifier. JL specs say that this Amplifier requires a 50A Fuse for this Amplifier. So, with that said, all you will have to do is go to your local Best Buy, Stereo Shop, ect... ect... and purchase either a AGU, ANL, or MAXI Fuse Holder and a 50A Fuse to match the Fuse Holder you purchased.

I highly recommend ANL fuses over any other fuse, but if you can't find one, any of the other two choices should be fine.

Also, to correct what Joe Durkham stated above, an average vehicle with no electrical upgrades will produce roughly around 12.5 Volts. Unless you upgrade your electrical system doing the "Big 3", you shouldn't be seeing anything higher than this.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1281
Registered: Jun-06
Disregard the Kicker link I provided. That is the incorrect Wiring Kit. This is the one that you need:

Kicker ZCK84:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17765_Kicker-ZCK84-09ZCK84.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 163
Registered: May-09
Joe S the battery voltage by itself will top about 12.5 volts, to charge it needs to be provided with a slightly higher voltage so current flows through it so if a particular car does not reach the full 14.4 it will have to be higher than 12.5. Hope you can test yours maybe at higher RPMs.
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1284
Registered: Jun-06
What?

Not sure what your trying to get at there, but the main thing you need to focus on is the Voltage coming off the Battery to the Amplifier, not the Alternator to the Battery...
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 166
Registered: May-09
When the alt voltage goes up the battery and everything else connected to it goes up in fact the battery is a load to the alt when the car is on.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 62
Registered: Jun-11
Ahh this is a lot more complicated than I expected.....so would it be better/cheaper to do the 0 gauge upgrade/distribution block method or just run two wiring kits to the amps separately?....I have a tight budget but also want everything to be safe.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 167
Registered: May-09
The safest way would be yes, to run a 0 gauge back there, a distribution block, you would not need a full wiring kit just run a 4 gauge to the amp and return ground also with a 4 gauge, and zeros for the hifonics, on the distribution block you just place proper fuses for each amp.This would best be done for you.

One other thing solid power is essential to SQ.

If you are not going full power with your amp maybe you can leave the electrical system upgrade for later. What are the exact model for your subs?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 63
Registered: Jun-11
IDMAX D2V3's......dual voice coil 2 ohm.....they will be wired to a 2 ohm load for the amp which should be around 1500W....I see a monster distribution block but it has 1/0 input and 3 4 gauge outputs....do they make them with 0 and 4 gauge outputs?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 168
Registered: May-09
Hifonics is not that underrated Id say you could do 1600 or more easy.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 64
Registered: Jun-11
Ok so I could use my current 4 gauge power/ground for the new amp if I cut the power wire down a little bit? and get some 0 for the Hifonics?also if I wanted to do this myself how hard is it? And I just put the 0 for the input and a 4 and 0 for the outputs?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 169
Registered: May-09
Sure if you install a 0 gauge line you could use the 4 gauge ground as it is and cut off the red to reach the distribution block from the 4 channel amp, If you have never done this before it would be easier to have it done for you. Its not like its complicated to do, but it has to be done right.

When you say that the subs "will" be wired to 2 ohm you mean you have not installed yet?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 65
Registered: Jun-11
No im switching from my 15" TC 3000 to these subs....I already have one but the other one is shipping and will be here tomorrow. How much should an install like youre describing cost. Cause I know car toys will quote like $200 for it but there are a lot of other people on CL that say they will do it too
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 170
Registered: May-09
If you plan to take that amp to full power you will need alt + battery for sure, plus a calculated sub enclosure plus install everything, that will get really expensive! Its not like you can't do the job but you have to research a lot and do it with care The only thing I would have installed for me would be the alternator upgrade.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 66
Registered: Jun-11
How many RMS do you think if I keep the electrical stuff stock....for the speaker amp and sub amp
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 67
Registered: Jun-11
*how many rms do you think I will be getting
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 171
Registered: May-09
If the alt is the following:
Volvo Part#: 8251655 / 9472908
it has 120A, as far as power goes it will do 1440W
If you take away services plus say 300W from the JL
You will have say 950-1000 RMS worst case scenario.

It would be around 1200-1300 RMS depending on the usage.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 68
Registered: Jun-11
What would be a good battery recommendation...I probably need one soon anyway
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 173
Registered: May-09
I like Optima yellow, not very cheap though, anyways the battery only stores energy does not make energy, by itself it wont really help except for buffering energy so the alt should be your first upgrade along with the upgraded cables needed.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 69
Registered: Jun-11
So basically I need

4 channel amp
Rear Speakers
0 gauge ground/power for old amp
Use current 4 gauge power/ground for new amp
Dist block
Remote/RCA/Speaker wires for new amp to speakers
Fuse/holder close to new amp
Electrical upgrades eventually

Does this look right?
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 181
Registered: May-09
You have to find a proper fused distribution block, depending on circumstances a ground block and proper fuses to each amp.

The 0 gauge kit which comes with all accessories, I guess the fuse holder will come with that as well. Also the subs wiring may come included.

2 long enough RCAs (good quality) the remote-on cable comes with the 0 gauge kit.

The 4 channel amp of course plus speaker wiring to reach the speakers from the trunk.

The 4 AWGs you already have.

The *enclosure for your subs*

I would for now hold on the rear speakers and the electrical system upgrades.

I think its all there but recheck it yourself.
 

New member
Username: Culrich87

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-11
Help.... I just installed some aftermarket 6x9's in my car with a stock head-unit. After installing and doing some testing I noticed one of the speakers cones tore on the outer rubber part. This also happened to another aftermarket 6 1/2 inch speaker... Did I install them wrong? is there any reason why this could have happened. They are rated at 300 watts peek and 75 watts RMS... Ugh.... Help, anyone?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1366
Registered: Jun-06
Hello Christopher. Please try to avoid high-jacking other peoples threads. If you go back to the "Speaker" Forums, there is a Create New Thread option at the top of the page.

If you create a new Thread, people will be able to help you out.

Also, when creating a new thread, is it possible you can take a picture of the Speaker and upload it? From what you described, it could be a simple fix.
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