Can a bigger alt. increase SPL/SQ???

 

Anonymous
 
Here is what i have:
stock alt (100A)
JBL BP600.1
solobaric L7 12"
4 ga. amp wires
14 ga. to sub
DEH-P6400 Pioneer HU

when the bass hits my lights dim and my voltage-meter in the dash bounces.

I know that when something like this happens amps clip, right???

the bass sounds like crap when this happens also...could getting a 165A or a 200A alt stop this, will there be a noticable difference in the sound???


also, i have one other problem.
when i crank my truck , my sub makes a THUMP.
it also THUMPS when i take a CD out or put one in the HU...

plus when i pause a CD the sub continues to move a little, if you touch it you can feel it moving.....it also continues to move a little then i put my HU in standby mode, what could be wrong???

 

Silver Member
Username: Jamtochristian

Williamsport, Pennsylvania USA of course!

Post Number: 113
Registered: Mar-04
Sounds like with the rumbling problem, you may have some noise on your line, or perhaps a poor ground connection. Either one isn't ideal.

Your sub is rated to handle I believe 750 watts, and you're amp is only going to put out a max of somewhere around 600 watts at 2 ohms. This is obviously not enough to max out that sub. But, make sure that you're amplifier isn't being driven into clipping. We hear all the time how clipping signals kill subs, but its equally as bad for your amp... so make sure you don't have your gains up too high, or that the headunit volume isn't up so high that its clipping either.

The lights dimming... well that amp driven at the full 600 will draw somewhere around 56 Amps. Which, isn't all that much, but if you have more amps in your car, you may not have enough power to run them all. The problem can also be that during the real hard bass hits the lights can dim because the voltage regulator can take a split second to catch up to the new power requirement. If thats the case, then getting a small Capacitor MAY be the way... although many will complain ext... sometimes they can help only if you're charging system is already efficient. My advice, is that if you can pick a 165a alternator cheap on ebay or something, that will never hurt. 56 amps on a 100a alternator shouldn't go TOO hard... as I've seen systems drawing 72 amps run with a car only having a 80 amp alternator. But... it can vary.

First remedy: Check your ground connection, and or make a better one. Make sure its a GOOD Chassis ground.

Secondly: Check you RCA cables and make sure that they're not being routed next to any large power sources such as the 4 ga power wire. This can add to the noise on your signal.

Thirdly: Consider upgrading to some noise reduced RCA's, something with either a shielding, or twisted for noise cancellation. This never hurts. You said you have a truck, so it won't cost too much.. prolly 12-15 ft RCA...

Fourth: If you have a friend that has a .5 farad or 1 farad capacitor, see if you can borrow it, this may fix your dimming. But, if you were to upgrade your alternator it won't hurt.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jonathan_f

GA USA

Post Number: 755
Registered: May-04
As long as your electrical system is up to par, a capacitor will help with immediate current draw, such as forceful bass hits and repetitive long excursions. The reason we recommend against a capacitor in most threads is because they think it'll fix a faulty electrical system, and the alternator is the part that's suffering. Putting a capacitor on a faulty alternator will strain it even harder and will lead to alternator failure. 1 Farad will be plenty for that amp. What kind of truck is it? If it pulls a lot of current from the accessories, then it may need a bigger alternator. Like Donald said, check your ground points and signal cable.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 3963
Registered: Dec-03
check the ground point.
make sure the amp is grounded to sanded bare chassis metal.
make sure gains are set properly.
clean battery terminals (cocacola does the trick well. pour some over each terminal.)
if the problem persists, upgrade to the 165A alternator. The amplifier draws about 56A at full output. If you plan to upgrade to a larger amp or add a second amp later, consider that 200A alternator to cover the added draw.
that should answer your problem.
 

Unregistered guest
Hi I have 2 subs that can handle 600w each and 2 amps that put out 500w each. I have each amp hooked up bridged to each subwoofer. My question is, am I straining my alternator? Its a 55amp alternator. Is there anything else I should do? Oh and I have a 1 farad capacitor.
 

Anonymous
 
oh, i forgot to mention that i already have a 2 farad cap...

...i'm going to check my ground

but would the ground have anything to do w/ the THUMP the sub makes when i start my truck, change CD's, or the rumble it continues to make even when the HU is in standby mode???

oh, thanks for the suggestions, i'm going to check the ground right now!
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 3980
Registered: Dec-03
yes it could.
that can also be due to your gains being set much too high.
 

Anonymous
 
OK...

i went to a shop and they sold me a "ground loop isolator" and it fixed the problem!!!

i'm going to upgrade my alt very soon also!


thanks
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