Please help me out!!
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 25 Registered: Apr-10 | I have an Audioque 1200d. wired to 2 10 inch dvc 4ohm subs wired down to 1ohm. On the bass remote, whenever I raise the volume the clipping light lights up. What exactly is that? and how do I prevent it? |
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Gold Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 1055 Registered: Jul-09 | Sounds like maybe the gain on your amp is up to high. Where do you have it set? http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/clipping.html |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 26 Registered: Apr-10 | I can't really tell..the audioque amp doesn't really specify..its just a flat head screw and there is no writing around it..the guys at geek squad did all the adjustments. |
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Gold Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 1057 Registered: Jul-09 | I use the same amp. It depends on what the output voltage from your h/u is. It really shouldnt be turned up more than half way though. So i would check on that first. Also, if the clipping light is just flashing here an there its not really an issue. Its when the light is solid red is when your going to have problems. To much clipping and your going to destroy those subs. |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1432 Registered: Oct-09 | The guys at geek squad hooked it up, there's your problem My advice, if you want to make it as simple as possible, would be to turn the gain on your amp all the way down. Play a 50 Hz sine wave at the highest volume you plan to play your stereo at. Make sure the bass, treble, etc on your deck is at Zero. Then turn the gain up until the clipping light comes on. When it comes on, adjust the gain down enough for it to go off. Set like this, playing your music, even up to your loudest listening level, shouldn't cause it to clip. |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 27 Registered: Apr-10 | Yea I got the amp you suggested for me. And I'm using my stock h/u and the light is sometimes just on so I always turn it down. so your suggestion is not to put the gains higher then half way? |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1433 Registered: Oct-09 | Also I'd recommend if you havn't done so, upgrading your big 3 and make sure you have a solid ground in the rear for your amp. Doing these two steps will help to maintain the highest voltage you can. Your amp does rated power at 14.4 volts so once voltage falls under that, output from the amp will go down as well. The Glasswolf page link he shared with you has a home page full of car audio advice. You can pull up the page on the Big 3 if you're not sure what all that is. Its cheap and easy to do. |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1437 Registered: Oct-09 | I forgot to add, don't have your subs hooked up during the process. |
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Gold Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 1059 Registered: Jul-09 | I would say just check it out. Who knows what the guys at Geek Squad did. Clipping can be caused from any number of things really. My bet though is that its from the gain being set to high. I would just turn it down a little an see how it does. Also,when the light comes on how high is the bass knob turned up? You dont want to turn it up to high. I dont even use mine for anything other than the clipping light. |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 28 Registered: Apr-10 | Ok thanks everyone..for your inputit was very helpful..I'm gonna start by lowering the gain and then ill get back to you all! |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 29 Registered: Apr-10 | Hey SKD..can you give me an exact list of what I'd need for the big three. I watched videos online on how to do it and it doesn't seem that hard. I think I need 1/0 guage power and ground cable. A new Battery. and that's it right? Please let me know |
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Platinum Member Username: InsearchofbassPost Number: 16482 Registered: Jun-04 | new battery isnt needed |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 30 Registered: Apr-10 | Oh really? All the videos recommend it but shoot if it will save me money then cool. I have a 2010 car so I was kind of skeptical in buying a new battery and you cleared my mind! Thanks haha |
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Platinum Member Username: InsearchofbassPost Number: 16484 Registered: Jun-04 | no problem |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1448 Registered: Oct-09 | If your battery is in good shape, no need in buying one. Now, there is also nothing wrong with getting a good, strong, car audio battery, or something strong like a Diehard Platinum from Sears, etc. So that is up to you. If your voltage is holding up just fine and you're not having any power issues with lights dimming, etc, I would just leave the stock battery in for now. Later on down the road when its time to replace it, maybe then upgrade it. The big 3 is simply replacing the wires that are already on your car to a larger gauge. There will be a ground from the engine block to the chassis, from your battery to the chassis and you have a wire from your alt to your battery. You can leave the factory wires if you want, won't make a difference. So you'll just need enough 1/0 to do the job and ring terminals to fit onto your wire to fasten the wire down. You can trace down your factory wires, do some measuring and get an idea on how much wire you would need. Fairly simple to do. Here are some pics of when I did mine. You can see the difference in wire size. I've since cleaned up under my hood haha    |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 31 Registered: Apr-10 | Wow those wires look huge! Haha I looked under the hood and I'm having a hard time finding the wires that run from the engine to chassis..I found the wire that goes from my battery to chassis but that was easy cause its right next to the battery lol it seems fairly easy! So here's what I'm ordering so please let me know if I am missing anything! 1. 20ft.1/0 gauge kicker power ground cable. 2. 8 ring terminals. 3. Positive and negative battery terminals. |
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Gold Member Username: JbpittPittsburgh, Pa. Usa Post Number: 1068 Registered: Jul-09 | Looks good... maybe throw in some of that split wire loom. Keep the heat off your wires. Did you figure out whats going on with your clipping light? |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 32 Registered: Apr-10 | Ok then sounds good..and so far I turned the gain down and it seems to be the solution but now my subs aren't as loud as I thought theyd be..my single type r 12 sounds louder than these cvx 10's |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1454 Registered: Oct-09 | If you can set the gain with a DMM, that may help. Also, if your amp is seeing a good deal of voltage drop, that may also be hurting its output to your subs. If the amp is getting lower voltage, it will be putting out less power and so you're having to turn the gain down lower than you may need to, if the amp was seeing closer to 14.4 volts. The main thing is to figure out how much power your alt can handle and see how much your amp is pulling off of it. Lastly, say the amp is 1200 rms, but you have to factor in efficiency. Say the amp is 75% efficient at 1 ohm, 1200/0.75= 1600. So you may be getting 1200 rms from the amp but your car is seeing 1600 worth of current pull. I don't know exactly how efficient the AQ amp is, that was just a generic number just for an example of how efficiency works. Like with my SAZ 1500D, its 78% efficient at 1 ohm, so at the 1k I plan to run it, its going to be pulling 1260 watts worth of current pull. |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 33 Registered: Apr-10 | I have another question, where is a good spot for engine to chassis? And, what size fuse should I buy for the ground wire to alternater? Also, there was a video I watched on YouTube where someone said you had to charge your fuse after..is that true? How would I do it if it is true? Please get back to me soon cause I want to do it already lol |
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Gold Member Username: SkdooleyRoanoke, VA Usa Post Number: 1469 Registered: Oct-09 | You can put a fuse between your alt and battery, but there really isn't going to be a lot of current flow through it. You can do it for safety if you want, it would just add extra cost to the big 3. It's going to be important to fuse your power wire within 12 inches of your battery, that's feeding back to your amps. Take the toal RMS of power you plan to run and divide by 14.4. Get the fuse thats closest to the amperage you're running, without going under. If you're just running the 1200D, a 100 Amp fuse would be plenty. As far as where to ground your chassis, you should have a stock ground already there. If you can't find it, a bolt directly to the frame of the body will work. Be sure to connect to bare, clean metal not covered in paint or anything for a solid connection. As far as what fuse to change, I'm not sure what fuse you're referring to. |
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Bronze Member Username: JarredPost Number: 34 Registered: Apr-10 | Yea a 100 fuse is what I'm using right now..but I was wondering where I should ground the engine block to chassis..I was able to find the battery to chassis but I can't find the other one..but I think I will do it just for safety..also I asked if the fuse needs to be charged not changed hopefully that will clear the confusion cause the video states that you should charge your fuse before using..I was a little confused with that |
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