2008 Toyota Highlander w/ JBL system

 

New member
Username: Mayqswet

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
Is anyone familiar with how to improve the sound quality in this vehicle? It has mid ranges in the dash, 6x9 woofers in the front doors, 6.5" 2-ways in the rear doors and a ~6" square sub in the rear liftgate.

It seems to me like the music is "trapped" in the dash and front doors -- it's missing the crisp cymbols and higher guitar notes and the front door speakers sound quiet and muddy. Crutchfield says that the front woofers can be replaced with a full range or components while still using the JBL amplifier. I thought the crossover occurred in the amp and you were stuck with low frequency going to the doors and hope that I'm wrong.

Has anyone modified this set up? I'm not that experienced with component speakers, but the CDT CL-69CX or EF-61FG/TW25 PRO seem like good ones to me and are right around my budget.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 9464
Registered: Jul-06
Are you sure the ones in the dash aren't tweeters?

Most stock systems are a nightmare to use yes. The crossover can be on the speaker or in the amp, only way to know is to test it.


CDT is very good equipment. The lower lines are ok but look into the ES line if you can afford it, those are just awesome, I run a ES-5/DRT-25 combo.
 

New member
Username: Mayqswet

Virginia Beach, VA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-09
Thanks for the reply. I found a website that gives more information about the factory set up. www.jbltoyota.com/toyota_highlander/default.asp According to them, they are midranges in the dash.

Could anyone comment on these ideas?

1. Keep the existing set up and simply add CDT upstage tweeters, wired in series with the existing midranges (three speakers on each side)

2. Going with a 3-way component - 6.5" in the door, 4" in the dash (if they'll fit where the midranges currently are) and tweeters on the dash (three speakers on each side).

3. Going with a 2-way component set up - 6.5" in the door, mount the component tweeters in the door, while leaving the existing midranges in the dash (three speakers on each side).

4. Going with a 2-way component set up - 6.5" in the door and swapping the in-dash midranges for the component tweeters (sticking with two speakers on each side).
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 9469
Registered: Jul-06
Option 1 would not be good, thats like using the CDTs to try and polish a turd (stock speakers)

Also in my experiecne the dash is a very bad location for speakers, it creates a weird, not good sound.

I would get a component set and install it in the doors. Then your next problem is if you want to try and keep any of the stock system. The easiest route is usually to get an aftermarket HU and amplifier. Not only that but the stock amp prob doesn't have enough power to make those CDTs shine..... a good amplifier would make a big difference. But then you have have the issue of connecting that to the HU.... so an aftermarket HU is the easiest fix there.

As you've probably noticed this gets expensive. But if the crossover is in the amp you don't really have a choice.
 

New member
Username: Mayqswet

Virginia Beach, VA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-09
Ha! Great analogy...I may have to use that one myself.

According to the JBL site, the amp puts out 440 watts.

If I get a component set, install it in the doors, what would you suggest I do with the midranges in the dash?
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 9475
Registered: Jul-06
Just disconnect em. And that is prob the total watts on all channel.... acutal 2 ch output is likely a LOT less.

But you really need to find out if the crossover is in the amp, b/c if so you won't be able to use the stock amp.
 

Silver Member
Username: Exige

CDT, Audiopulse Dealer

Post Number: 728
Registered: Nov-07
There's way too much unknown about that amp. First, based on JBL's ratings, the amp is good for a max of 55w x 8 channels. The next question is whether or not the amp is rated for max output or RMS output. If max, cut that 55w figure in half.

ES's will be too much for what he's going after, budget-wise. The EF's present a much better option. In my personal opinion, they are CDT's best bang for the buck set.

Anyways just got your email bud, I'll send one back and we can get you all squared away.

Mike
mike@exigeaudio.com
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 9488
Registered: Jul-06
Listen to mike (exige).... good seller and knows CDT inside out.
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