Help setting up audio system

 

New member
Username: Chrisilver

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-08
I just recently got a 2005 Civic lx coupe, and I am interested in adding a sub to the system. I have never done any modifications to cars or anything to do with audio at all really, but I have been doing what research I can over the internet.

I understand that I basically need 3 main things: a headunit, the sub, and an amp to power it.

For the headunit, I was torn between the Alpine CDA-9886 and the Alpine IDA-X100. So I went to a local store and was sold on the IDA because the CDA line does not support charging for my iPhone while the IDA does.

For the sub, I am looking for something with big presence but very focused on sound quality. I Don't want something that sounds like a garbled mess when the volume is turned up. One brand I like and have heard nothing but good reviews about is the Fi Q's. Will these fit what I want? Please also suggest some other brands with similar pricing focused on SQ.
I Don't know whether to get the 12" or 15". What are pros and cons for each?
And is it worth getting the BP Power option for an extra 40 bucks?

Q12

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 28.4 Hz | 27.1 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 05.39 | 5.63
Qes: .49 | .48
Qts: .45 | .44
Mms: 211g | 231g
Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N
Sd: 481cm^2 | 481cm^2
Vas: 48.3 l | 48.3 l
Spl: 85.4dB 1W/1m | 84.8dB 1W/1m
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A
Xmax: 27mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: .8-1.5 cuft
Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 12.500"
Cut ID: 11.125"
Mounting depth: 7.000"
Displacement: 0.16cuft

---

Q15

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 25.9 Hz | 24.9 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 5.64 | 5.72
Qes: .54 | .54
Qts: .49 | .49
Mms: 257g | 279g
Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 135 l | 135 l
Spl: 88.2dB 1W/1m | 87.7dB 1W/1m
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A
Xmax: 27mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft
Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 15.625"
Cut ID: 14.125"
Mounting depth: 8.500"
Displacement: 0.19cuft


Lastly, the amp. Could someone name some well priced amps that will work for me? From what I read, it seems like the Sundown 1000 watt amp is a good choice. But I don't know much about amps.

+But the most important question of all, Will I be able to run this setup safely with a completely stock car? I really don't want to have to get into the hood and start messing with the alternator/battery ect.?

Thanks you so much for any help you offer!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 10051
Registered: Jun-04
It looks like you have a 70 amp stock alternator and some of that is to run your vehicles basic electrical needs. For a sub wooofer that has good sq and will fit your electrical situation go with a jl 12 w 6 v2 its the best sounding sub sq wise ive heard and it puts out decent spl. A friend of mine had one in an integra hatch back on a jl 250/1 and it hit 132 db and sounded very good but it needed a bit more power so go with 400 to 500 watts and youll be good to go with it. I own the image dynamics idq 12 and that is supposed to be a good sq sub also and it doesnt sound as good as the Jl 12 w 6 I heard. Get a class d mono block amplifier for efficiency on your electrical. Just make sure its an amp that puts out the power you want at 2 ohms if you go with the Jl since its a dual 4 ohm sub woofer.

 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 10052
Registered: Jun-04
something like this kicker zx 400.1 would work its factory renewed and has a birth sheet rating of what looks like 455 watts and it would be $127.98 shipped. Just copy and paste the link in a new window and it will work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=260266886035&Category=64570
 

New member
Username: Chrisilver

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-08
So if the alternator is 70 amps, how many Watts rms can it handle? Can it run a 1000 watt amp? while still power lights, a/c, ect.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 10062
Registered: Jun-04
No. At idle you cars alternator will put out around half the alts rating and at 2000 rpm it will produce the 70 amps. But like I said your vehicle needs some of that amperage to run the basic electrical needs and when the lights are on and ac ect. you are drawing more than without them on. The math for wattage is amps x volts equals watts so 70 amps times 14.4 volts which is where the amps power is usually rated gives you 1008 watts rms but amps have efficiency losses of around 20 percent for class d and that brings you down to 806 watts rms. So as you can see thats not factoring in any of your cars basic electrical needs and thats why I recommended an amp of about 400 watts because it takes about 40 amps to produce that much power with a class d amplifier. It will give you the right amount of draw for at idle situations and driving at night time so it doesnt pull on your battery too much. If your lights dim at night you can just turn it down some but you should be ok. Get around 400 watts for your sub and an amp to power your highs and your set. The extra power for your highs shouldnt add to much draw if you dont go with a lot of power.
 

Silver Member
Username: 2000celica

Roanoke, VA U.s.

Post Number: 132
Registered: Jan-08
the fi Q is a great choice for SQ, especially for the price, it is really hard to beat. i would say going with one would be efficient for a honda civic since its not a large car. if you want the optical sq from the sub put it in a sealed enclosure. if you want it to be louder put it into a nice ported enclosure, increasing the internal volume as to how loud you want the sub to be (within its limits of course). as for an amp and having a stock electrical system you want to make sure overall that the amp is efficient. a nice efficient amp is the u.s. amps brand. look them up, theyre awesome. sundowns and AQs are also nice for the money. my opinion of course would be a JL 1000/1 if youve got the cash.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 10075
Registered: Jun-04
Chris...."+But the most important question of all, Will I be able to run this setup safely with a completely stock car? I really don't want to have to get into the hood and start messing with the alternator/battery ect.?"

Shawn he only has a 70 amp alt and factory battery so he cant run 1000 watts thats why I gave the input I did.
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 8082
Registered: Jul-06
" if you want the optical sq from the sub put it in a sealed enclosure. if you want it to be louder put it into a nice ported enclosure, increasing the internal volume as to how loud you want the sub to be (within its limits of course). "


All false..... "sealed sounds better than ported" is a myth. The ported box will sound just as good, or better due to increased low end output if it's tuned right and built by someone who knows what they're doing i.e. Phil or Fisher.
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