THE BIG 3 !!!

 

Silver Member
Username: Highstone

Post Number: 102
Registered: Mar-06
okie. i just heard about this amazing thing called THE BIG 3. what i want to know is:
What wires need to be changed/replaced?
How do i do the wiring?(not really sure about it)
 

Silver Member
Username: Killerzracing71

Fredericksburg, Virginia United states

Post Number: 492
Registered: Aug-05
the three wires that come off the alternator, Powe/red(dont know the technical name), ground, and the starter wire i think thats it...I was askin the same question i wish someone would just post that website with the tuturial..i had abunch of pics
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 679
Registered: Aug-05
Larger Power Wire From the ALternator to the Battery With a Fuse On it an Larger Ground Wire For the Battery An Larger Wire for Engine To Chassis Ground ... Thats the Big3
 

Silver Member
Username: Killerzracing71

Fredericksburg, Virginia United states

Post Number: 493
Registered: Aug-05
hey caddi u dont know that website with the long tutorial do u cuz i think it had even more car audio info.....that was very useful
 

Silver Member
Username: Highstone

Post Number: 104
Registered: Mar-06
hi, i'm a rookie. do you think i will be able to do it by myself. HOW HARD IS IT? do i need alot of tools.(because i don't have tools. except a hammer, screw drivers, screwgun, and few more tools)
 

Silver Member
Username: Highstone

Post Number: 105
Registered: Mar-06
also.. how much will it cost?
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 680
Registered: Aug-05
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=



Killer . i think thats the Link you want, you will have to copy an paste it or type the last few letters into your search bar because for some reason it has never worked correctly when posted here
 

Silver Member
Username: Killerzracing71

Fredericksburg, Virginia United states

Post Number: 497
Registered: Aug-05
LMAO..........LMAO......LOL.....Guess whut like 10 mins ago.....no prolly less i just found the website....u just posted.......I just checked the ecoustics Forum......LOL......Thnx though CADDI
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 731
Registered: Jan-06
Whye would you run a fuse off the alt power wire? I wouldn't, ever see how small the filaments are in those, not much current carrying capability at all. Funny to go from a 1/0 ga multi strand (5200+) oxygen free copper wire just to have a fuse in the middle. POlo..
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 681
Registered: Aug-05
Every one puts inline fuse holders with around 300 amp fuse's on the Extra Power Wiring thats Coming from the Alt to the Battery when they are doing the Big3
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 682
Registered: Aug-05
But Polo, if you have any further Questions about why a Fuse is used at all then follow the link up there an read because a few guys have also asked that same question on that thread when sounddomain threw up the offical Big3 Guide
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 736
Registered: Jan-06
Every one puts inline fuse holders with around 300 amp fuse's on the Extra Power Wiring thats Coming from the Alt to the Battery when they are doing the Big3


I have never seen a single person do this and I have been bumping since 84.


But Polo, if you have any further Questions about why a Fuse is used at all then follow the link up there an read because a few guys have also asked that same question on that thread when sounddomain threw up the offical Big3 Guide

I do know why fuses are used, I did graduate high school.
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 737
Registered: Jan-06
Oh and another thing DB, how old are you? If you would have noticed they are using crimp terminals and using a vise to crimp them, what a bunch of friggen retards! I would never use crimps and if I did I would use a crimp anvil to do it, well known by some but will allude others, lol. A fuse will not flow as much current as 1/0ga (5200+ strand)PERIOD, and you would only be hurting the current capability of a HO alt. Don't believe everything you read..Polo..
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 683
Registered: Aug-05
Polo, Im not trying to Get into some ignorant Whos Right Whos Wrong Argument with you online so go on doing what you do an ill go on doing what i do...Have a good one, Old Man
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 684
Registered: Aug-05
Just read the last Paragraph




Do I need a Bigger Battery wire to the Alternator?
When upgrading to a higher output alternator you should always install a larger wire between the alternator and battery. Even with a standard output alternator you will get better performance and life out of your alternator if you upgrade the main battery wiring. The original wire just isn't large enough for proper power transfer.
If you are using your alternator to it's maximum output or when you upgrade to a higher output Alternator you must increase the wires size. An alternators ability to send the power it is making to the battery is directly related to the wire size and quality of connection between the alternator and battery.
Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail.

Another area that little is paid attention to is the ground. You must also improve the ground as well. A poor ground will hinder the alternators ability to send power to the battery and can burn an alternator up just as fast as an inadequate alternator to battery wire. Your ground may be fine when you first install your alternator but over time corrosion and resistance builds up in the ground connections. This is why it is best to run the ground directly from the rear of the alternator to the battery.

Here is another great auto electric tip from Randy DuBois on upgrading the wire between the alternator and battery. Randy says, you do not need to rip out your old wiring when upgrading. You can piggy back a second wire between the alternator and battery. The main battery wire connected to the back of the alternator has power to it at all times, even when the vehicle is shut off. You connect this wire like normal then you run a second wire between the alternator and battery. The power coming out of the alternator will treat the two wires as one, power follows the path of least resistance.

On a safety note, when running the second wire you should fuse it near the battery. The fuse is just in case the wire gets pinched or shorted out, the fuse will blow instead of the wire burning up. You should use the largest fuse you can for the wire size, fuses are restrictive to current flow. Typically you want the fuse value to equal 80% of the wires load carrying capacity.



Source of info

http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#voltage%20reg





Further Info, in the Form of a Quote




Anonymous

Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 01:53 am:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So i bought a new 160 alt. and im going to give it 0/1 gauge wire from the alt to battery. Now i heard that you need a fuse that matches the alt max rating near the battery. ok, being new to installation does that mean lets say get an anl fuse holder and two 80 anl fuses for each side or how does this work. totally new to this

Glasswolf
you need at least 2AWG cable from engine to chassis, battery negative to chassis, and alternator to battery positive.
on the alternator to battery cable, you'll want a 160-200A in-line fuse or circuit breaker.
This is strictly to protect from a fire in case the wire melts or grounds out and starts throwing sparks and arcing around the metal under the hood.
The fuse doesn't have to be exactly 160A because in the case of a dead short, it's going to blow instantly anyway.
you'll also need a fuse for the same purpose between battery and amplifiers, near the battery and rated for around the peak current capacity of the wire itself. 0AWG is rated for 325A so anything around there is good.
at the distribution block you can use smaller fuses for each amplifier to protect the amps themselves... using fuses rated for the peak current draw of each amp respectively.



Anonymous

Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 10:45 am:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
an 150 fuse to much for a 80amp fuse rated amp?


GlassWolf
Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria , Lane
USA

Post Number: 10277
Registered: Dec-03
Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 10:48 am:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the fuses under the hood aren't to protect the amplifier.
they are to protect the wire itself, and the car.. like I alraedy said.



 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 685
Registered: Aug-05
Ive done two HO Alts an one was before i found this board or even knew i was supposed to use a fuse on the extra Power wire but you still wouldnt have seen me not use a Fuse or Circuit Breaker on Wire that would be carrying Power through it
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 686
Registered: Aug-05
Again if you Polo Do not feel like reading all of this then only Read the Last Paragraph



Source of info :Bcae1.com, Part 16

Wire:
As you already know, wire comes in many different styles and sizes. I will touch on a few design parameters that you must consider when choosing wire. The most important consideration is the amount of current that will be carried by the wire. The wire's size is indicated by gauge. The most common wire sizes used in car audio range between 4awg and 22awg. The larger the awg (American Wire Gauge) number, the smaller the wire size.

Resistance:
We already discussed resistance. Now you need to realize that all wire has resistance. This is the reason that wire has current limitations. If you remember the formulas from Ohm's law, you will remember P=I^2*R. The power dissipated in wire will be in the form of heat.

For Those Who Refuse to Fuse:
Now let's see what will happen if excess current is passed through a small conductor. We will assume that some imaginary piece of wire (we don't want to destroy a real piece of wire) has .01 ohms of resistance (e.g. a 15 foot long piece of 8 gauge wire) and that wire is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery (without a fuse... that should scare you). Now let's say that the other end of the wire is allowed to touch to the chassis of the vehicle (which, in most vehicles, is connected to the negative terminal of the battery). The two battery terminals are basically shorted together by the wire (through the chassis). In this situation, a very large amount of current will flow through the piece of wire.

If we wanted to calculate the current flow through the wire, we would use the Ohm's law formula I=E/R. If we use the ideal automotive battery, which is rated at 12 volts, and divide it by the resistance of the wire which is approximately .01 ohms, we get a current of 1200 amps.
I = E/R
I = 12/0.01
I = 1200 amps


Then plug the current into the formula P=I^2*R. We get:

P = I2*R
P = (1200*1200)*0.01
P = 14,400 Watts


This shows that the wire would dissipate 14,400 watts of heat which would melt the wire's insulation and more than likely ignite everything that comes in contact with the wire (fuel lines, other wires, carpet, plastic, insulation). In comparison, the largest burner on your electric stove will not put out that much heat on high!

Note:
We could have simply used the formula P = E2/R but many of you are new to this stuff so I went the 'scenic route'. To prove that it comes out to the same value:
P = E2/R
P = 122/.01
P = 14,400 Watts



Safety:
Any time that a tap is made off of a power source (battery, fuse block, distribution block...), you MUST put a fuse inline as close to the source as possible. Another thing to keep in mind is that you must insert a fuse inline anytime that the wire size is reduced, such as a tap off of the main power wire for an amplifier, head unit, equalizer... The fuse must be rated to open (blow) well before the wire starts to overheat. A secondary but very important consideration is environment. Is the temperature going to be extreme, hot or cold? Is there anything like oil, grease or solvents that will come in contact with the wire's insulation? All of these things have to be considered to build a reliable, high quality system.




Personal Note From me to you, Polo

GO Back To Basics
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 690
Registered: Aug-05
I guess everyone else is wrong about this, me, Glasswolf, isaac, all the guys at the other forum an most the guys here that feel they should fuse ... we are all wrong an you are Right

I Sincerely Highly Doubt that we are all wrong an you the one lone Voice are Right .. but im sure u will come back with somthing to prove me wrong so just make a Thread an say Why Use a Inline Fuse on the Power Wire while doing the Big 3 An Ho alt ,an state ur case there My Friend
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2260
Registered: Sep-05
great article CadillacDB..
especially this part:

" Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail."

People givin me a hard time about my wire... LOL
This thing flows like a waterfall!!
https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/215124.html


But hey what do I know??... I did graduate college with a Electrical Engineering degree... cough** cough**

 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 739
Registered: Jan-06
Oh, I guess people are gonna try to put fuses between the battery and the starter now, wonder why the manufacture doesn't...Polo.
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2261
Registered: Sep-05
that I dont see the point in.. :-)

the wire is less than 2ft... If it was longer then maybe u should protect it more.. But that short, no problem with me...

I was talkin about ALL the wiring in general Polo..

u and them funny pics right :-)

 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2262
Registered: Sep-05
WHO SAYS U NEED FUSES ANYWAY? :-)
If I had a gourment to run the wires in, Ill run them in the middle of the car from front to back with I REPEAT NO FUESES!!!!

AS long as nothing can physically damage or cut the wire, a FUSE is POINTLESS..
FUSES is for precautuions..
my 2cents again.... :-)
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 5458
Registered: Nov-04
You're safe till someone drunk runs into you. Then, you'd wish it had fuses.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol' U.S...

Post Number: 25
Registered: Oct-05
I would recommend a circuit breaker if anything. That way it would at least trip and you could reset it. I personally dont run a fuse on my Sonoma with a 300 amp alternator on it. That is just me though. It is good to run something if you are worried about the wire getting cut though. It could cause a fire if your wire should somehow get grounded out - especially if you are running heavy 0 gauge !
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2264
Registered: Sep-05
well said Nathan.. :-)

goin threw firewalls and stuff like that, tight areas, then those should be fused..

If u FULLY understand and know what your doin.. Fuses really dont matter.. :-)

On my 2 long runs of 0ga to the back, I have each wire fused with a 200a fuse..

The fuse is to protect the wire!!
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3485
Registered: Feb-05
Hey nate, good to see you on this forum again. Its been ages since ive seen you on here. You need to start increasing your post count and become gold at least :-)

By the way i emailed you yesterday about my HO alternator. Talk to you soon man.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol' U.S...

Post Number: 27
Registered: Oct-05
Yeah, I just replied to the other post you have about your 98 Toy. I will be more active on here now. I was on another forum but they had cancelled my group buy and deleted all my post I reply to. It has to do with another company that pays to advertise with them.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3487
Registered: Feb-05
Thats bull, You wont have to worry about anything like that on this forum. Probably my favorite forum because its unbiased and ive been on many forums. Most of us like EXCESSIVEAMPERAGE and your service. Look forward to seeing more posts from you.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3488
Registered: Feb-05
This forum doesnt play that girly crap. Very unbiased and will welcome any body with positive info regarding caraudio and competitive discussions etc...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol' U.S...

Post Number: 28
Registered: Oct-05
I will do what I can to help with any info I can provide. I will hit you up as soon as I get your alternator finished, Should be later today or tomorrow. I still have the Montero alternator you sent back as an exchange - Let me know if anyone needs one of them. Thanks Mo.
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 741
Registered: Jan-06
Ya, I also like this forum, we tell people how it is!
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 742
Registered: Jan-06
B, I was using the fuse on the starter thing as an exaggeration, you know, lol. The funniest thing I see is where you have sites that say "this is the ultimate way" and you should do it but then they show pictures of an idiot wiring up 1/0ga using a crimp on ring terminal, no wonder why they want you to fuse everything, TO PROTECT YOU FROM THERE ADVICE! I PERSONALLY use heavy duty copper terminal from a welding shop then solder it on WELL. I think I got the advice from a member here, works awesome! I fuse all my long runs. The only thing I don't like about fuses is that if you look at them really close they have a little tiny piece of metal that is the link, how much current is it really flowing? If that little piece really has such a high current flow then we would be able to run 12ga wire for our amps because it would be thicker then the link within the fuse. I agree safety is a number one priority but if you look at the wiring the manufacture uses compared to what we use, you would FREAK! Polo.. :-O

Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2267
Registered: Sep-05
I see my above statement got deleted by admin.. :-)
posted at 1:10.. LOL

I too like this forum, what happened over there was just uncalled for!! <--- Clean version...
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2268
Registered: Sep-05
well said Polo :-)

It was even a thread one time about voltage drop across the fuses... :-) Ill try pull that one back up...

my factory alternator to battery wires was even smaller than the other 4ga factory wires thats used in the car.. that wire was only 8ga...

thats why its replaced with 2 runs of 0ga from alternator pos to battery pos... :-) <<MADE A WORLD OF diffrence!!

Polo them ducklins looks WORN... :-)
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 743
Registered: Jan-06
Why was your post deleted? Not like you were posting pictures of B00B AND WEINERS, lOl..

Hey I did my big three the other day only one run for now but a huge difference was immediately known, just the sound was diffent. My lights no longer dim, maybe a slight flash with around 6-8dbs of BB at idle.. :-O Polo..

Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 692
Registered: Aug-05
I use Allen Wrench Locking Ring Terminals on almost all my Large Gauge Wires just because it makes things Worlds Easier but if for some reason i cant use those im sure to Solder Things very well..


An i have to Agree With B, because those Ducklings are looking a bit worn LMAO ... Dem Old Ladys should be Ashamed of them selves
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 693
Registered: Aug-05
I also Dont know if i would tell anyone to do the big3 if they didnt have a Ho alt because it wouldnt hurt to have new Wires that are larger but i doubt you would see much of a difference

Polo.. i wonder, how long have u been trully into car audio, i would venture to guess that u only got into it within the last few years Due to a Mid Life Crisis
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 694
Registered: Aug-05
I guess there would be some difference but some guys say a huge difference but i think it would be a small noticeable difference ...

 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 751
Registered: Jan-06
Dude I was into car audio when Pyramid was the sh!t and not sh!t, yes there was a time, lol! Everyone had to have an EQ and I remember teaching myself because I learned how to read the wiring diagrams on the back of the majority of EQ's out there at the time. I grew up in the era of house music, break dancing and roller skating, what a fun time, not to mention WEED! Oh and DB you still never said your age, probably a lot younger than you want people to believe. I also am a 3rd generation mechanic in our family, even though I no longer do it full time, not enough money in it anymmore. Polo..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol' U.S...

Post Number: 33
Registered: Oct-05
Polo - Those were the days man ! You said it. Back when an EQ hooked to the 6x9's was "loud" - remeber that ? The big3 will make a big difference if you dont even have a high output alternator although the high output alt will make a huge difference, you need the extra power to feed the amps.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Swisher

Marianna, FL

Post Number: 15
Registered: Apr-06
"The big3 will make a big difference if you dont even have a high output alternator"

does it make that much of a different would it be worth the effort to do it to a stock one until you get the money to come and see you nate (might be a little while)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol U.S....

Post Number: 37
Registered: Oct-05
It is worth it to do it on a factory alternator. You will also have one less thing to do when you do get a high output alternator because the wire will already be there.
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2275
Registered: Sep-05
X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :-)
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 752
Registered: Jan-06
Nate, you remember when they had them power boosters under the dash and when Jensin (yes Jensin) came out with there triaxle 6x9 with the big magnets and ble foam surround, they were sweet, lol. I use to bump the neighborhood with Pyle drivers, Oh sh!t feelin old all of a sudden, haaaaaaaaaaa..Polo. :-O
 

Silver Member
Username: Adddisorder

Post Number: 116
Registered: Jan-06
i am giong to upgrade my big three with 4gauge because my alt is only 80 amps and i cant afford an HO and i dont need one anyway. im debating on wether or not to put a 140a circut breaker on it. what do you think
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2277
Registered: Sep-05
I remember Jensen being the shitznitz.. :-) Pyramid and Boss was also big... Bazooka was that big thing too...

remember wiring up cassete decks for the car? with NO rcas... hand wiring the old school equalizers with built in amplifiers, with NO rcas either... :-) I started early...

Ahhh then came CDS in the 90s...
I had so many tapes.....
 

Silver Member
Username: Safe_cracker

Chicago, IL US

Post Number: 753
Registered: Jan-06
The first in home cd player cost more than $450 and played only one cd, think it was made by Fisher and they were the sh!t too, lol. I remember roller skating to Jone Jet, Bangle, jay Geils band (sp), Gogo's, lol not to mention several others. Polo..
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 695
Registered: Aug-05
Polo ...im 22
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol U.S....

Post Number: 41
Registered: Oct-05
I am going to put a post for "Remember when" ? I will post it in a few. Back in the days !
 

Bronze Member
Username: Excessiveamps

Dothan, Alabama Good Ol U.S....

Post Number: 43
Registered: Oct-05
Okay, Hopefully he has the big3 taken care of now. Here is the post for Remember When https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/216036.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Jbump

Nebraska City, Nebraska USA

Post Number: 225
Registered: Dec-05
Would 2ga. cable be big enough for a 200amp alt? i have a 4ga. Big3 in my car right now and i want to get a HO in a couple months when i save up enough money.. but first get the wiring done...
 

Silver Member
Username: Cadillacdb

Houston , TX

Post Number: 696
Registered: Aug-05
2 gauge would do the job but i would just go with 0 gauge if i were you.. im even thinking of running a Second Run of 0 Gauge on mine just like B has
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2292
Registered: Sep-05
^^^^^ my recomendations ^^^^^^
U will NOTICE this difference.. :-)
 

Silver Member
Username: Jbump

Nebraska City, Nebraska USA

Post Number: 226
Registered: Dec-05
Just a second run off the alt to the bat, or double all the Big3?
 

Gold Member
Username: B101

Queen City, NC USA

Post Number: 2311
Registered: Sep-05
2nd run off the alt to the batt, is what I always do.... but doublen up all the big 3 can only help... :-)
 

New member
Username: Alpineinfinity

Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-06
Is there any good sites that give you more info on wiribg up the BIG 3. THANKS
 

New member
Username: Alpineinfinity

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-06
Is there any good sites that give you more info on wiring up the BIG 3. THANKS
 

Bronze Member
Username: Swisher

Marianna, FL

Post Number: 57
Registered: Apr-06
we should keep this up top since its kind of a important thing for this section.... too bad we cant do stickys
 

Silver Member
Username: N2audio

Lawrence, Ks USA

Post Number: 833
Registered: Mar-04
if you're not smart enough to figure out the resistance of a high current fuse is negligible, especially considering what it's protecting -- you really shouldn't be giving advice on how to set up amplifier power.

I don't care if you've been doing this for 22 years or 22 minutes.

 

Silver Member
Username: Swisher

Marianna, FL

Post Number: 102
Registered: Apr-06
bump for some good info
 

Bronze Member
Username: Troy81

Tavernier, Fl Us

Post Number: 74
Registered: Mar-06
if you ask me.... wouldnt putting a fuse anywhere on your wire lose amperage for the rest of the system, its not gonna get more up after it loses it, so either way a fuse will decrease the hole thing, so its pretty much no fuses or any amount of the same fuse
 

Bronze Member
Username: Killswitchjd

Post Number: 84
Registered: Apr-06
troy, are you saying because I have a fuse after my battery that I am losing power? For some reason I thought the wire could melt... now I feel stupid... anyways, here are my questions:
should I take my fuse out and go strait from the battery to my capacitor?
Just wondering, I don't claim to know alot or to be an expert on car audio.....
 

Gold Member
Username: 54danny54

Betsy layne, Kentucky..GO... USA duh

Post Number: 2313
Registered: Nov-04
"But hey what do I know??... I did graduate college with a Electrical Engineering degree... cough** cough** "
B

lol B is my idol...i love how he can be correct about stuff and sound like n a$ $ doing it...i love doing that 2 ppl...
also i wanna be an electrical engineer so yea
 

Silver Member
Username: Swisher

Marianna, FL

Post Number: 110
Registered: Apr-06
nate dont listen to troy on things like this... not saying that he is a bad person or dont know things about this but dont make actions on one post by someone who hasnt been around that long if you wanna know the answer to you question make another post and someone will answer your question and then someone can verify it
 

Silver Member
Username: Scott_debaker

Pittsburgh, P.A. U.S.A.

Post Number: 562
Registered: Feb-06
say u got a fuse on ur power wire from ur alt. an the fuse blows an u dont no so when u start ur car it wont b chargin ur battery?
 

Silver Member
Username: Hootz

Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 192
Registered: Oct-05
Yeah that's true. The only problem is that for the fuse to blow, the wire would probably have to ground or short out. And in that case, you'll definately know about it because there'll be a lot of smoke and possibly flames coming out of your engine compartment. And your car probably won't start after that either.
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