alright well i have 2 15" l7s along with a kx2500.1 specs on the amp are RMS Power at 4 Ohms 1250 W x 1
RMS Power at 2 Ohms 2500 W x 1
i got 0 guage stinger amp kit i have everything wired with top of line wire. the car im getting im getting a 300amp alternator to replace my stock alt. im only gonna be pushing the subs at like 1000w rms a majority of the time. not alot at all. i was wondering if a 300 amp alternator with a Stinger Power2 SP1000 red top battery to replace my stock battery and then just throw in a battery in the trunk to play when the car is turned off. money is not an issue and im trying to stay away from capacitors. should that be a fine setup if i wire everything up with 0 ga wire and do the big 3 with 0g. also what should i use for the battery in the trunk. a yellow top stinger???? . please let me know anything else that would be helpful. im just trying not to have any electrical issues when i go to hook it up.
sounds good to me. Theoretically, your amp can draw 240-250A. However - at a reasonable volume it shouldn't need more than 60A or so to play music - maybe not quite that much. The 2nd battery would be a good idea if you plan to do much listening with the car off - you might want a deep cycle for that. At 50-60A even a good battery will be dead in an hour or so.
thanks alot yea im just adding the 2nd battery just incase i would like to bump with the car off and i have money to throw around. would i need an isolator or not. i got the proper fuses
The 300 amp alternator is the most important piec eof your setup. As long as you have a deep cycle battery with that.. (or as long as your alternator has a high idle output, you might not even really *Need* one..but should still have one) Y ou'll be fine. Actually, more than fine.
About mixing battery types.. If you're going to run a seperate type of battery in the back, than you are up front, make sure to have them isolated. And in a multibattery setup that's isolated, your starter battery dosnt need to be deep cycle, either.. Some prefer a normal starter battery, even, for hte higher CCA. (Personally, I just run a pair of non-isolated optima yellow tops, as running them in parallel provides far more than a normal starter batteries CCAs.)
All in all - with a 300 amp alternator, you're more than fine.
(BTW - with a good charging system like the one you're planning to have, you might want to consider a small capacitor, as in this scenario is where they're actually useful.)
A high amperage alternator does not protect you from flashing lights.Some regulators aren't all that fast so it takes a moment for the alt to kick in which could cause your lights at night to "Disco" even though your voltage is top notch! As Seth said, this is where they are actually usefull. I have a 300A alt and there is no more freezing my @ss off because I am trying to conserve power or running with just parking lights on or even reving my engine at the stop light. It is great and I have noticed a BIG difference in power and sound and I have a little stock battery also (750 cca) Polo..
alright so if i run two top notch yellow top batteries one up front and one in back i should be good i dont need an isolator right? for my setup i would only need an isolator if im running two different battery types?....
Correct will. But if you run your system with your engine off, it will drain the batteries.. That's one big advantage of isolating them.
However, something nice about non-isolated dual battery setup, is that if you're running a high RMS system, even a stop light can put a serious drain on your battery.. A good battery can be discharged in a matter of minutes, but it takes hours to charge up. If you have a dual battery setup, it at least helps stabalize your voltage, and avoid clipping your amps due to lack of available current for the short red light stops, etc.
(It dosnt matter the amperage output of your alternator - your battery will only accept so much charge at a time, so much easier to drain them, then recharge'm..)
im trying to get 2 of the same battery types so i dont really have to isolate them but what type of batteries should i get. one going in the front and one in the back. should i get 2 optima yellow tops if so what is the best battery to get.
So wired in parallel, I'll have 2250 CCA, (sure eliminates the part about people saying get a red top starter, cause you'll have low CCA with a yellow.. heh heh)
Some guys out there recomend kinetic/stinger, etc.. But for a similar battery (lets say the Stinger SP1700, you're going to be paying over $300 on ebay, (vs the 34/78's $160 after shipping), you'll get about 900 CCA, have a higher resistance (.0038), and get about 72 ah capacity.. (So two optima's for the same price, gets you 1500 CCA, 110 ah capacity)
So if you have the room, I'd definately recomend a pair of yellow tops over a kinetic/stinger..
And actually, since I dont have any experience with the other brand of batteries, I'd even recomend just one of the 34/78's vs the others, (if nothing else, because of price alone - but I can vouch for the quality of optima's yellow top line - they're outstanding batteries.)
Actually, more than fine. 
