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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | Ok, I have a 1992 mercury sable and I went to install my Pyle PLA2470 amp, and it says I have to connect a "remote on/off" wire which is between the positive and negative wires for the battery. The car has a factory amplifer to the 6x9's in the back, I was wondering if instead of trying to figure out which wire on the back of the Head unit wiring harness is the wire I need, Could I just tap into the wires going into the amp? Any Idea what wire it would be? and Could I also just tap into the wires going into the amp for my Input wires for my amp? Im REALLY new to this. Thanks for everything. Sorry for my Lack of stereo's. |
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Silver Member Username: JaackdethUnited States Post Number: 398 Registered: Sep-04 | I don't think I would mess with the factory amp, unless you know what your doing, but you can take any 12v source that turns on and off with the "KEY" otherwise the amp will be on all the time, and kill your battery! Did you try calling a dealer to see if they know about the wiring colors? |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-05 | Didnt try calling the dealer.. but I found a wire going into the factory amp that is blue with a white stripe (read on another topic that the wire that should be hooked to is blue with a white stripe) an I went to try it and forgot I left my car on and my battery was dead lol. So it charged overnight and it should be running now, I just gotta test it. What about the Input wires for my amp? Which ones would they be? I took the electrical tape off the wires going to my speakers and the wires are all pink... LoL. Dont know If I should just strip em and try to see which ones work or what. |
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Silver Member Username: JaackdethUnited States Post Number: 402 Registered: Sep-04 | Is the HU in this car stock? And are you talking about high level inputs in that Pyle amp? Otherwise it's best using low level inputs from your HU to you amp, and power should always come from the Battery itself fused!! Not off the fuse block! |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-05 | The head Unit is stock but imma replace it in two weeks because my brother is coming to town and hes giving me his old Pioneer or Aiwa Head unit. Im using Low Level outputs, Im trying to run a 12 guage cable from my battery to my amp, and my amp is grounded. I got it to turn on today and it turns on/off with the radio being on/off. The Amp has a fuse feature on it so I dont have to put a fuse in the cable. I was just wondering if I could strip part of the speaker wires coming out of the stock amplifier(the wires that go to the stock 6x9's) and connect a wire to that wire and use that for the Input for my pyle amp. If that made any sense.. Because I have two 12's im hooking up. |
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Silver Member Username: JaackdethUnited States Post Number: 403 Registered: Sep-04 | Ok, first off the cable should be heavier gauge, 8 if not 4. You put a fuse in the line from the battery, because if something would short out, it could start a fire you can't put out. It is really to protect the people in the car. Of course you don't want your amp blown either, but think of what COULD happen without a fuse, and put it as close to battery as possible. Is there 2 sets of inputs on that amp? Like a high side and low level? |
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Silver Member Username: JaackdethUnited States Post Number: 404 Registered: Sep-04 | The Pyle amp? |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 5 Registered: Aug-05 | For the high level inputs, there is a wiring harness that Came with it, but im using this for my subs, and for the low level inputs, there are two Plugs(It says Gold Plated RCA jacks). Could I use the wires going out of the stock amp, into the speakers and splice them and connect another wire to them and use that for my Low Level inputs for my Pyle amp? The Wire Im using is 12 guage and its rated to 50 volts. The Amplifier has Fuses in it. (also short circuit protection, Overload protection, and thermal protection). Do I still need to change the wire? It house electrical wire, would that make a diffrence? Sorry.. Im really new to this stuff and I probably sound stupid. |
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Silver Member Username: JaackdethUnited States Post Number: 406 Registered: Sep-04 | Go to this site, and look around. It has alot of info on it. http://www.bcae1.com/ Yes you need to change the wire, but look at the site and browse through it and look at their suggestions. If after you read that you still need help, come back and we'll try again. I don't think it would be a good idea to mess with wires from your old amp. MHO |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 6 Registered: Aug-05 | I know about physics and amps and current and ohms and resistance and everything... Im wondering if I could splice the wires going to the 6x9's themselves... the actual wires going TO the 6x9 from the amp, and use those for the input wires for my Amp? |
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Bronze Member Username: BrynmPrince Albert, SK Canada Post Number: 43 Registered: Jul-05 | Definately make sure you fuse your amp power wire near the battery, if afterr running for awhile your wire insulation became damaged and contacted any metal it could do serious damage this fuse is to protect you and your cars whole electrical system as well as prevent possible fire. and get oxygen free wire for your amp regular house wire will corode and if it's solid will break from vibration, also with DC you need larger wire than if you were using it on AC. |
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Bronze Member Username: BrynmPrince Albert, SK Canada Post Number: 44 Registered: Jul-05 | Tell us the specs on your subs and amps and we'll let you know what you need |
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Bronze Member Username: Shadow1290Post Number: 62 Registered: Jul-05 | a simple 9-Volt battery will power your amp remote (that is if you can rember to turn it on and off) I'm running it from the remote on ny HU through a switch beside the steereing wheel when i hook up my new amp so i can turn it on and off (if someone "Imporntant" -HAHA- is in my car) |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 7 Registered: Aug-05 | Ok, I went and I removed a little of the insulator on the wires going to my stock 6x9's and I found the two wires that, when I hook them up to my subs, make them produce sound. Im using a Pyle 1600watt 2 channel amp model pla2470, and I have three subs but I dont know which two im going to use, I have a Kicker Solo-baric 12 inch (its round... Not the square) and Eclipse 350watt 12 inch, and a Rockford Fosgate (I think 200 watts) Sub. Its just got the "RF" on the front. So its not a Punch series. I started running the wires to test my amp and I got it hooked up, and the light came on, So I thought it worked fine, My battery is a dead battery so I have to replace it, and I used a battery pack charge thing, and now my amp doesnt light up. Could it be because I dont have a Battery hooked up and the Battery pack might be a diffrent voltage? I hooked up a multi-meter and I got like... 11.4 Volts when I tested the Positive and negative on my amp. So could my ground just be bad? Sorry Im so new to this. Just give me a list of what I need. Any other ways you guys would recommend doing my Inputs for my amp instead of splicing it off the other wires? Cause It going into/out of a wiring harness on my stock amp. Thanks for putting up with my ignorance guys. Much Appreciated lol. |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 8 Registered: Aug-05 | Ok. Also... I just went and hooked another battery up and I checked the voltage to the Positive on the amp, It gets power, checked between the positive and negative, its got power,,, checked between the positive and negative channels, they all have power, the power light on the amp wont come on. Any Ideas? (still read the post above) |
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Gold Member Username: SubfanaticKy Post Number: 4665 Registered: Dec-04 | light bulb is burnt out? lol |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 9 Registered: Aug-05 | Its LED. Good try though lol |
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New member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 10 Registered: Aug-05 | 800 Watts x 2 Output 1600 Watts x 1 Bridged Output Variable Hi/Lo Electronic X-over Network Variable Bass Boost (0- +18 dB @ 60Hz) Variable Input Level (Gain) Control Remote Turn On/Off Gold Plated RCA Inputs High Level MOLEX Input Power LED Indicator LED Protection Indicator S/N ratio: 95dB THD:< 0.04% Thermal, Overload, Short Circuit Protection Anti-Thump Turn-On Amplifier Type - Dual Channel Bass Boost Bridgable Power Output: RMS Power at 2 Ohms - 220 W x 2 RMS Power at 4 Ohms - 150 W x 2 Performance: Frequency Response - 15 Hz - 30000 Hz Low - Pass Frequency - 35 Hz - 400 Hz High - Pass Frequency - 80 Hz - 2500 Hz Signal to Noise Ratio - 95 dB Bass Boost Frequency - 60 Hz THD at Rated RMS Power - .04 % Dimensions: Width 11.5 in. Depth 17 in. Height 2.34 in. Other Features: Input Voltage - 10.5 volt MOSFET amp - Yes 3 Way Ready - Yes Thats my Amp Specs... Ill try to look up my speakers. |
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Bronze Member Username: BrynmPrince Albert, SK Canada Post Number: 48 Registered: Jul-05 | you should have heavier power wire than 12 I would use at least 8 guage, what is your remote lead connected to if that isn't on a 12v source your amp will not power on |
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Bronze Member Username: TaharnakPost Number: 11 Registered: Aug-05 | I dont have my Lead connected, cause I was just trying to get it to work, but I had it connected to a wire from my other amp and it turn on and off when the radio turned on and off... so I just need a higher guage Positive power cable? Any idea on a price for about... 10 feet? Also Im gunna try to find specs on my Subs that im going to use cause I dont know what kind of wire to get. Once again, thanks for everything. |