I have a Kenwood KAC-716 240W Monoamp that I want to install in my 1991 Nissan Pathfinder. I currently have a Kenwood CD player which I had professionally installed. I'm broke so I dont want to pay to have my amp installed. I just need to know how to hook up the wires. Please help me!!! I would appreciate any help, or advice on where I can find out how. Thanks!
Your amplifier does not come with any wiring so you'll need to purchase power and ground wires, a remote turn on wire, a fuse holder (with fuse), and the appropriate hardware (terminals, grommets, wiring ties, etc.). You'll also need RCA patch cables to carry the audio signal from your receiver to the amp, and speaker wire to connect your amp to your sub or speakers. You can buy a wiring kit or buy each one if you want a custom look.
First thing you have to know is how to get the single from the head unit to the amp. Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. In this case, an RCA patch cable carries the signal from the receiver to the amp. If your receiver does not have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature speaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which step the speaker-level signal down to a preamp-level signal acceptable to the amp. If your amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs, an effective and inexpensive line output converter will help you step the speaker-level signal down to preamp level. You can access the speaker-level signal from the amp or the line output converter by stripping a small section of your vehicle's right and left speaker wires, and splicing in wires that lead from your amps speaker-level inputs or the line output converter .
Next how to power the amp. Disconnect the negative terminal from your battery -- this allows you to run power cable through the vehicle and hook the amp up without risking a dangerous short circuit. Locate a hole on the firewall of your vehicle; most cars will have a predrilled hole you can use. If not, you'll have to find a good place to drill one -- take care not to drill through a gas line or electrical wiring!
Find a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse holder you'll want the section of power line between the fuse and the battery as short as possible (less than 6" is best). Anchor the fuse holder to a suitable spot with a self-tapping screw (smaller fuse holders may not have to be anchored).
Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire (to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location), and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper. Crimp a terminal ring on one end of the short piece of wire or you can just put the wire to the battery + bolt, and put the other end to the fuse holder . Strip the insulation off the end of the red power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder. Run the wire through the hole in the firewall into the car.
Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn on wire (usually a blue wire). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio, wrap the turn on lead from the amp around it, and solder it. Wrap the exposed area with electrical tape to guard against a short. Using wire ties to secure the wire, route the blue turn on lead behind your dash all the way over to the place where the red power wire comes through the firewall.
Connect the RCA patch cables to your radio's RCA preamp outputs (tape them together so they don't come apart), and route the cable (again, using the wire ties) to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the vehicle from the power cable and blue turn on lead. It's important to separate the patch cables from the power wires to avoid potential noise problems. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you have to fix a problem later).
Remove the door sill trim panel (it pops off on most vehicles, but check for screws before you try) on both sides of the car. Route the red power wire and blue turn on lead under the carpet down one side of the vehicle, the RCA patch cables down the other side. Replace the trim panels, and route the wiring along the rear side panels (there's usually a good place to tuck it away), around the sides of the rear seat, and into the trunk (or wherever you've decided to mount the amp).
Remove a bolt near the amp location. Crimp a ring terminal to the short piece of black ground cable and then bolt the terminal tightly to the vehicle's metal chassis. Scrape away any paint and clean the bolt location thoroughly (improper grounding is the #1 cause of noise problems). If you can't find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one -- be careful not to drill into the gas tank or a gas or brake line.
Check all the wires again and hook the battery negative terminal back up. Put the fuse in at the battery and test you system. If all works put the head unit back in.