I need help. I have 2 12 inch Kicker Solar-Baric L7 subwoofers and i need to know how many and what kind of amp should i get. Ive been lookin around and havent found much about what i need.
one of my boys told me about a memphis 16-MC1000D - 1 CH 1100 Watt Amp. And ten my other boy told me if i did that i would only be pushin 550 watts to each speaker. thats y im wondering what should i get its gettin really confusing. My boy told me Memphis is prolly one of the best amps out im just lookin for some other input thanks
Hey Ricardo, Memphis is a good amp, not the best. If you like it then that's all that matters. Anyhow, one of your boy's theory is wrong. If you had 1100W rms amp, you will get 1100W rms to any speaker you connect to it. Let's say you have 2 subs rated 1000W. Connect them both to the same amp and you will get full 1100W, not 600W per sub. To make it easier to under, think of the amp as your power source and subs as 2 60W light bulbs. Now if you attached power to the bulbs, you get full 60W to both light bulbs right? If not, you'd have a very dim house lights. Amp and subs behave the same way. Regardless how many subs you may have, it'll always supply the rated power.
Thank you sooooo much Isaac...I almost made a fatal mistake. I was going to buy a MTX 1501D or equivalent and connect it to my Lanzar's in series thus giving a 2ohm load...the speakers are rated 500 watts RMS...so you see where this is going. So I should actually purchase A class-d amp pushing 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms...correct?
Hey AndyG, what kind of subs do you have? If you have 2 4ohms DVC, then you're either going to have 16ohms, 8ohms, 4ohms or 1ohms combo for the amp. However if you have 2 2ohms DVC, then you can have 8ohms, 2ohms, .5ohms. So if your subs total 2ohms, then, yes you need an amp rated @2ohms.
AndyG
Unregistered guest
Posted on
I used the wrong term...they will be in parallel. (2) 4ohm subs in parallel thus providing a 2ohm load...I have however had ALOT of controversy over the amount of watts seen to each speaker...do you have a formula to show how this works? Please understand my being so sceptic I don't know you or what experience you have in this field...and all to often people are willing to offer advice without a full understanding of what they are talking about...again this is nothing against you at all...but any help would be appreciated...
The speakers are Lanzar's, 1000watts peak power, 500watts RMS, 4ohm Impedance and each speaker is in a Audiobahn Bass Tube.
My question is simply will a Mono Class-D Amp Producing 500 Watts RMS @ 2ohms, supply 500 watts RMS to each speaker or will the watts split and thus become 250 watts RMS a piece?...By what you had said earlier I believe they will recieve 500W RMS a piece...if this is so could you offer some more in depth explanation on this?
Hey AndyG, yes it will suppy 500W to each speaker. Think of it this way. Your amp could be the power in your house. The subs can be like a 60W light bulb. Now if you connect one light bulb, you get 60W of light. If you add another one, you still get 60W of light on the 2nd one too. That is how the amp operate. Regardless of how many subs you have, as long as you meet the amp's ohm requirement, it'll always be 500W. Just like you can't split the power in your home, amp's output can't be split. I think people get mixed up with 500W 2 channel amp. Some advertising say it's 500W rms total. If you look at the ad carefully, it'll say 250W x 2. In that case, you will get 250W per channel. The mono amps, it's straight 500W. Hope that helps you.
You can pretty much take the total amount of RMS wattage that the amplifier is producing and divide it by the number of subwoofers that you are hooking up to the amp. 1100W RMS between two subs will be 550W RMS to each sub.
I currently have a RF 100.1BD mono amp (2002) wired to two 12" Kicker-solobaric L7's (750 RMS, DVC, 4 Ohms) under a 1 ohm load. The amp is rated 1000 RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms so it's putting out ~1300-1500 RMS. Does anyone know if this set-up will damage the amp?
Hey Jake, where did you get that theory? Can you backup your statement reguarding subs dividing amp's output power?
turdburgler
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Uhhh...wiring 2 dual 4 ohm subs in parallel gives a 1 ohm load, Isaac... which is not healthy for your amp sir... either think about getting a different amp... or a crapload of fans.
hey ricardo i have a 2004 rockford fosgate t10001 bd amp and since u said u have two 12'' subs with ah 500 rms but 1000 watt max...take this i have been doing systems for like 5 years and in my 2000 monte carlo i put the r.f. amp with my type-r 12'' subs that have same rating as ur subs and i parrell wired them because my r.f. amp can take the 1ohm easily the only thing about that is that u will be pushing a full 1000watts to each sub and if u run 4ohms u will be pushing 500watts per sub.....if u wire down to 1 ohm then u will need a bigger alternator either a 200 amp or a 150 amp with a 1farad capacitor because the amp itself can pull 100amps max. if u don't want to fry stuff then do that is what u should do ..(i have fried my ecm on my car before and $$$$$$$ spendy) LONG RUN IF U CAN SUPPLY THE POWER IT AND KEEP IT COOL I8T WON'T HURT THE AMP
Hey Daniel Walter Gisch, I have two questions for you. First, your amp generates 500 RMS x 1 at 4 ohms and 1000 RMS x 1 at 2 ohms; are you sure that wiring this amp with two subs under a 2 ohm load will generate 1000 RMS per sub? I always thought that this configuration will kick out 500 RMS per sub since it's only 1000 total RMS per channel. Second, I want to know how long and under which conditions have you been running this amp under a 1 ohm load because I am currently running two subs at 750 RMS each with a RF BD100.1 amp under 1 load that's kicking out ~1500 RMS total. I've heard mixed opinions about running RF BD amps at 1 ohms so can someone please clear the mix-up once and for all?
I have been wiring all of my subs down to one ohm for about five years always have always will...my amp at 1 ohm at 1 channel the rf bd10001 pushes 1000 watts per sub if u parelel them to one ohm and bridge them together i am sure about the 4 ohm and 1 ohm thing but i beleive that if u run 2ohms it will run 750 to the subs so bridge them to that and if u have probly 12 gauge wiring and zero gauge wiring to power the sub and if u get a good alternator with possibly a cap u will run full power possible...if u want to max the subs to 1000 watts wire them to one ohm...u get alot deeper hits (better base) did i explain it good enough?? i've done this for quite a while
Power BD1000.1 Specifications Channels: 1 500W X 1 @ 4 Ohms 1000W X 1 @ 2 Ohms 2 RCA Inputs 2 RCA Pass Thru 4/8 AWG Pwr/Spkr Terminals dimensions: 14-7/16"W (10-7/8" without endcaps) x 2-7/16"H x 9-7/8"D
Nice amplifier, but not rated for 1 ohm loads. running that amp at 1 ohm will most likely void the waranty, and cause enough distortion to eventually damage your subs. Be aware of those risks when doing this. Also be aware that by dropping the amplifier to sub-spec loads to get more power instead of buying a larger amplifier instead will also mean: poorer THD poorer signal to noise ratio less dynamic headroom due to overtaxed power supply worse damping factor more heat more clipping which damages speakers
these are all, sure, unavoidable problems with running ultra-low loads on amplifiers.
good luck
You have a nice system going there Danny. Are we talking about the same amplifier from the specs I pasted? Most RF mono amps aren't rated for 1 ohm, so I'd be very careful running one that way. Not to say it can't be done though. I've run some older Orion amps that were 2 ohm stable at 1 ohm without problems, too, but I didn't leave things wired that way. In my case it was a temporary solution while I was re-doing one system.
To GlassWolf: I am currently running a RF BD1000.1 amp under a 1 ohm load with 2 12" Kicker-solobaric L7's. I have the gain only at 50% and the Kickers "POUND HARD" in the front and back seats of my Maxima. I mean you get massages not only in the back but also front seats. Anyway, you said that running this RF amp at 1 ohm will produce more clipping which is cause by asking the amp to produce more power than it's max. Well I am not doing that, I am asking the amp to put out ~1500 RMS under a 1 ohm load but only at 50% gain. So do you still think that this set-up is unhealthy fot the amp? If yes, please explain.
it is a different amp then the bd 1000.1 i tink it has a t in it and i'm gonna call the store i bought it and see if they will back me up for a 1 ohm load just to see
"Anyway, you said that running this RF amp at 1 ohm will produce more clipping which is cause by asking the amp to produce more power than it's max. Well I am not doing that, I am asking the amp to put out ~1500 RMS under a 1 ohm load but only at 50% gain."
*sigh* ok it's like this. the amplifier isn't designed to run at 1 ohm, according to the specs I found on it anyway. when you run at 1 ohm, the power supply nor the output stage is regulated on that amp, so the power increases. However, your amp's power supply isn't designed to handle that sort of load, so instead of having the headroom required to handle transient demands which you get a lot of with the dynamic nature of music, the power supply can't supply enough juice to keep a good sine wave. then, the amp clips, and the peaks of the sine wave get chopped off, so instead of AC voltage, you get DC voltage going to the subs, which damages the voice coils due to producing heat and distortion, and since the human ear can't distinguish lower than about 10% distortion in audio in a car, you probably can't even hear it.
Now as for the gain, gain on the amp ISN'T a colume control, NOR does it have any effect at all on how much power the amp puts out. Gain, or more properly, input sensitivity, has one function only. This setting matches the input line voltage to the proper voltage via variable impedance, for the input stage of the amplifier. If gain is set too high, you overdrive the amplifier's input stage, and thus get distortion. If you underdrive the input stage with too weak of a signal, you get a lower SNR, more noise floor, and a poorer quality signal to amplify and thus a worse signal to hear.
If you'd like to know more about amplifier fundamentals, please read this article I wrote on the subject. It should help you get a better understanding of what an amplifier does, and how.
Hey GlassWolf, those are some great recommendations regarding the amps but I just found out that my 2 12" Kicker-solobarics are DVC 2 ohm subs (Oooops!). I am now looking for either one or two amps that would power my subs. Could someone please aid me A.S.A.P in choosing the ideal amp or amps for these subs?
All you need is a amp stable at 2ohms which any of the amps that have been talked about in this thread are. All the info that has been told to you still applies. This is the way you wanna wire your subs unless you have a amp that is .5 ohm stable which I doubt you are gonna get. So here you go to solve all your problems wire it this way and figure out how many watts you want to push to them and find a amp its not that difficult dude. 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series /Parallel Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances: Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
yeah two dual 2 ohm subs will yield a 2 ohm load. ya wire the coils in series to get a pair of 4 ohm subs, then wire the subs in parallel to get 2 ohms.
any decent amp that puts out around 1200wRMS x 1 @ 2 ohms would do the job. MTX has the 1501 and 801 I believe that both deliver around that output.. check that though. I get all the models mixd up with them.
Which would you rather have running two 12" Kicker-solobaric L7's (DVC, 2 ohm, 750 RMS), an MTX 1501 (1500 RMS x 1 at 2 ohms); a RF 1000.1BD (1000 RMS at 2 ohm); or some other something else that costs less than $500.00? If not a RF amp, please explain why you made the decision. I am looking for as much feedback as possible because I am going to make a purchase most likely by today or tomorrow and it will help me to determine whether or not I should sell my RF 1000.1BD amp to get something else. Thanks!
Isaac: "Hey Al, I'd go with RF T10001BD or Kicker 1200.1 cause those 2 offer remote bass control along with great spec."
The RF T1001BD is rated 750 RMS x 1 at 2 ohms and the Kicker 1200.1 is rated 600 RMS x 1 @ 2 oh, thus these amps would underpower my subs which run at 1500 RMS total under a 2 ohm load. Does anyone else have a response to my 9th post?
Rockford makes good amplifiers. If you like them, go for it. I'd rather have the RF amplifier than the solobaric subs to be honest. I dislike square subs for numerous design and performance reasons, but many folks love them, so to each his own.
does anyone here actually own a rf t1000.1 bd amp...cuz i do and when u open the box it will show how much the amp puts out and mine says at 1 ohm it puts out a bit more than 1400 watts and at 4 ohms a bit over 680 so there ya go if u want to know if u don't have one