Nikon LS-2000 Super CoolScan Film Scanner (PC/Mac)
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Best hardware for slide scanning
What about tech support???
So why only one star? After a few months, I noticed that my scans became foggy. Then one day, it just stopped working altogether. I got all kinds of cryptic error messages that had nothing to do with the problem, things like the stage locking screw is still in place (Why would I put it back in after several months?) I never used the slide feeder so the unit was never open and I work in a very dust free environment. The computer the scanner was connected to only did digital imaging work and nothing else to prevent interference from other software. I had the exact same tech support nightmares as the other reviewers. I called the repair number only to be told to call Customer Information after a thirty minute hold. Then they simply hung up. I called the Customer Information line only to get a busy signal. So I emailed them all of my questions. FOUR WEEKS PASSED and the response was to follow the instructions on the web site for returning it. I was left scrambling to finish a major project, and I still have a broken scanner and an empty wallet.
So before you buy this or any other Nikon scanner, remember that they do not seem to care about customers after they have your money. I have decided that my next slide scanner will NOT be a Nikon, just because of the lack of customer support.
Nikon Cool Scan: an alternative to a digital camera??
But, I do know a good picture, and that even a 5 Megapixel picture is not impressive to me. That resolution is fine for 5x7, but blow them up to 8x10 and print them.
Like alot of other people, I have fine 35mm film equipment, and it is a fact that the resolution of film with a good camera ranges from 25-100 megapixel resolution. The argument of "oh, 5 megapixel is waaay good enough: are you gonna blow it up to 3 foot by 4 foot?" Not true. If you are used to deep saturated colors and resolution of film, its real hard to sing and dance for even 10 megapixel. And how bout that color shift that defies the linearity of predictability of the film zone system with digital (of today).
Well, the D200 and D300 are close, but no cigar (I'm a Nikon ONLY user, and it does not matter to me what anyone else is doing). And it is a fact for a pro, these are the real choices (even though I'm not a pro).
Enter the LS-2000: this was the alternative for me to keep my nice Nikon film camera gear and quality of pictures and try to have the 25-100 megapixel resolution Im used to seeing. I had a choice: spend the money on a 10-12 MP resolution camera, or but a scanner. I picked the scanner option (for now).
Why a scanner? I am tired of getting 300 DPI pictures from the local 1-hour shop, or their 1MB image CDs of my pictures taken with thousands of dollars of Nikon optics.
Enough background on the WHY: I am getting about 14 Megapixel resolution (16x scan, 24 bit, and many minutes of scan time...) from my color negatives. The results are pretty good: better than the scans I can make with my consumer grade scanners from 300 DPI prints, and better than the WalMart CD picture quality. But, the 2700 DPI scans I get from this scanner are not perfect: lots and lots of 'knobs to turn' to get the picture you want (color interpretation algorithms, post production tweaking, even software differences). I am using the Nikon Scan software, and it seems to work well.
The scanner is not going to revolutionize my photo taking process: I still have to pick and choose individual photos and spend time on each. I cant bulk scan and have quick turn around. This scanner is not gonna totally replace the convienince of a good digital camera (as I hoped it would).
I paid 50 bucks (yes, 50!) for mine used. They go for more than 10 to 15 times that used, and were 1800.00 new. I even had to fix mine: the machinery has many failure modes because of its complexity. Beware buying a used one: its likely someone is dumping it for a reason other than getting a better one. If you have Win XP and dont have a 2906 SCSI adapter, you better be a better enineer than me: I spent 40 hours to determine that the classic AHA-2940 wont work with the scanner and Win XP.
So, 50 bucks for 2700 DPI beats the 1400.00 for a Nikon D200 at this time. Make no mistake: this scanner produces great images. I treat every scan as the potential LAST scan the scanner will make before it dies.
If you can get one of these cheap (under 500 bucks), its worth it. If you can afford the 4000 DPI LS-4000 with easy to use USB: DO IT. the 1800 bucks of this and your film camer smokes a 1800.00 Nikon D300, and unlike the D300, will still have the 25-100 Megapixel resolution.
This scanner is good for those of us waiting for 50 Megapixel cameras. When digital gets 100 MP and works like film, we will look back on film like we do with vinyl albums (and my 1972 Deep Purple ablum sounds almost as good as it did in '72: lets see a CD last that long!).
nikon coolscan locking screw error 'fix' and more
When I start getting blank files after a SCAN, reloading the Nikon defaults clears it up every time (can then reset my custom settings). Unit and software are buggy and unforgiving, but here are my secrets to compelling the unit into action when it gets cranky. Don't bother asking Nikon, the problem is yours to solve. LS-2000 gives nice scans as long as you are persistant and compell it into action.
I am surprised to find none of this info in any other help file or review on the web. Hope this helps someone, I had to figure it out myself.